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89 festy carb super high idle until choke warms up

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  • 89 festy carb super high idle until choke warms up

    I have a 89 Festiva that I recently replaced the head gasket and after that it idled erratic so I replaced the carb with a reman from rockauto. Runs perfect as soon as the choke kicks the idle speed down. It idles really high for about 7 min what do I do?

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  • #2
    Do you mean you let it sit and idle for 7 minutes, then go after the idle goes down? It will warm up quicker if you just drive it after a few seconds of idling; and while you're moving, the high idle won't be a factor anyway. What is the idle speed when warming up?
    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

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    • #3
      If you look down at the base of the carb on the driver side, there is a large flathead screw facing the firewall. (just behind the throttle shaft) Start the car cold, and while the choke is still engaged, adjust that screw until the fast idle is where you want it to be. Hope this helps and good luck! To adjust the warmed up idle, turn the white plastic knob on the passenger side of the carb facing the rear.
      Last edited by zoe60; 12-11-2015, 06:56 PM.

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      • #4
        You can kick the idle speed (choke) down by depressing the accelerator and letting it up - tap, tap, tap. Sometimes when I depress the gas pedal three times before engaging the starter, as instructed in the owner's manual, the engine roars into life. Don't know why. Only need to do that when the engine has not been running, ie. cold, and the gas has drained out of the float bowl or something. Don't really understand carburettors.
        Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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        • #5
          It sounds like it idles around 4 or 5 grand when I first start it. If I drive it as soon as I start it the idle is high enough all I have to do is shift and it drives itself. And until the choke warms up it blows white smoke like crazy

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          • #6
            Originally posted by zoe60 View Post
            If you look down at the base of the carb on the driver side, there is a large flathead screw facing the firewall. (just behind the throttle shaft) Start the car cold, and while the choke is still engaged, adjust that screw until the fast idle is where you want it to be. Hope this helps and good luck! To adjust the warmed up idle, turn the white plastic knob on the passenger side of the carb facing the rear.
            I will try this tomorrow and see if it works thank you for your help


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            • #7
              Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
              You can kick the idle speed (choke) down by depressing the accelerator and letting it up - tap, tap, tap. Sometimes when I depress the gas pedal three times before engaging the starter, as instructed in the owner's manual, the engine roars into life. Don't know why. Only need to do that when the engine has not been running, ie. cold, and the gas has drained out of the float bowl or something. Don't really understand carburettors.
              Pushing down on pedal three times shoots gas from accelerator pump down throat of carb. Think of it as priming, really rich mix to get engine started.

              I grew up with carbs and have rarely owned a computer fuelie car, so will still forget once in a while and do this on fuel injected car, though it has no effect on fuelie car since you are just opening the throttle valve, all fuel goes though the injectors. Throttle valve on fuelie car just controls air being sucked into engine like on a diesel.

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              • #8
                I just reread your post, this time noticing your problem began after replacing a headgasket. I would check my vacuum lines very carefully as well as all electrical connections including engine ground. If you did not have a carburetor issue before the head gasket you shouldn't have a carb problem after the headgasket and until you find the real source of the problem you can adjust,replace,and modify things forever only to mask the real problem.Festivas will drive you crazy if you mixup the vacuum hoses
                Last edited by ricko1966; 12-16-2015, 07:38 AM.
                30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ricko1966 View Post
                  I just reread your post, this time noticing your problem began after replacing a headgasket. I would check my vacuum lines very carefully as well as all electrical connections including engine ground. If you did not have a carburetor issue before the head gasket you shouldn't have a carb problem after the headgasket and until you find the real source of the problem you can adjust,replace,and modify things forever only to mask the real problem.Festivas will drive you crazy if you mixup the vacuum hoses
                  OK thank you if that's the case I'm taking it back to the mechanic i paid to fix the problem

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