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So I need to replace one of my front rotors. I have no reason to think the bearings are bad and to make the job easier I'm assuming I can just separate the hub from the knuckle by pressing it out from the back of the hub, unbolt the rotor, then press the hub back onto the knuckle. I'm just looking for confirmation it can be done this way. Thanks!
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Rotors sit on the hub. In all honesty the convenience screw is not needed, but helpful when going solo.
No need to upset the hub in the knuckle if you don't need to. Extra work with the cv and blah blah.
8 step process.
Unbolt rim from hub.
Remove caliper and bracket.
Remove screw.
Swear.
Pound.
Swear more.
Beer.
Profit.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!Last edited by jason_; 12-16-2015, 11:35 AM. -
Stock Festiva design is 100 year old hub and rotor combo. Bolted together like Siamese twins or, possibly more accurately, a human centipede.
IF the other rotor is healthy I would consider doing it, but I personally would try not to do it in most cases. It's just better all the way to do them both. Even though it sucks.Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
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91 Festiva FSM PDF - DropboxComment
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Oh that's shit. Thought it was late design.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!Comment
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Im not sure but what happened that you only need one rotor? Usually they go bad in pairs.Originally posted by sactnato View Post
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"I can just separate the hub from the knuckle by pressing it out from the back of the hub, unbolt the rotor, then press the hub back onto the knuckle" That's about it, but you forgot to install the new rotor.
The rotors bolt on to the back of the hub so the only way to get at the bolts is to separate the hub and knuckle. The bearings will be exposed so be careful not to let any dirt or grit in there. You'll probably want to add some fresh grease before pressing things back together.
Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.Comment
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I think he is talking about a Festiva knuckle, which has the rotor on the rear. Axle must come out, at least. What you are describing sounds to me like an Aspire rotor removal.Originally posted by jason_ View Post90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
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I've seen it happen. One slider locks up and causes weird things to happen only on one side. I had an 05 (yes 2005 not 95 or 85) Colorado come in with an issue like this. And yes, in 2005 GM decided it was a grand idea to bolt the fricken rotor to the hub. So as you can imagine, I only changed one.Originally posted by ryanprins13 View PostAny difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Old Blue- New Tricks
91 Festiva FSM PDF - DropboxComment
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Ok, i see.Originally posted by sketchman View Post
Lol, way to go GM.... Must have hired and 80yr old engineer who hadn't designed cars since the 80's..
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The other rotor was replaced last year due to a crack, but I had another member rebuild the entire hub assembly for me because I had the time and money. This one has become warped and I'm trying to fix it myself because I don't have the money or time to send it off.Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post93 GLComment
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Call around and see if there are any shops near you that can still machine a rotor on the vehicle. Theres one right by where i work that will machine a pair for $40 if they are already off, but i never asked if they can do em on the car too.Originally posted by sactnato View Post
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If the other rotor is that new I'd definitely just do the one, and then I'd start shopping for a Rio Aspire Miata conversion.Originally posted by sactnato View PostAny difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Old Blue- New Tricks
91 Festiva FSM PDF - DropboxComment
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