b3 carb vac line issues, could use help ASAP.

[89 festevil]

TL;DR version- need engine bay pictures of the vac lines for the 3 lines that plug into the bottom of the filter housing and where they come from- these are the only lines i didnt label because i thought i'd remember but didn't. AND the stickied thread for the vac diagrams are virtually useless to me as i cant zoom in without distorting the pictures.

Anyways I've got just about all I can think of at the moment listed below with a bit of ranting if you think you might know how to solve my slowness/misfire.(and no i can't swap the motor lol as BP's and b6t's don't exist around here anymore, or cost wayyy to much when they come up on craigslist.)



I've replaced every ignition component minus the distributor itself due to the ridiculous price(I work at O'Reillys and can get most parts cheap as a perk of the job except.. the dizzy is like $300! damn thing is about as big as a soda can only!), cleaned every electrical connection I could( I had pulled the engine and labeled every vac line I pulled except 3 for the filter housing for some reason when I did my 4 to 5 speed swap), replaced the fuel filter, already had bought a new tank a while back and blew the line out with the air compressor, just did a new fuel pump last month since old one started to leak but still car misfires and is a slouch till 3k then it flys(car barely moves after 1/2 throttle and dies at stock 10* timing-currently not on the timing marks at what I'd assume is 14* and it's drive-able just slow on the highway unless you beat the on engine like it owes you money). I've tried different types of plugs(motorcraft platinums/autolite copper cores/e3's/bosch fine wire platinums), wires(NGK/MSD/Accel), different aftermarket coils(accel/MSD/mallory)- only reason i tried different brands is because I know how some engines react better to some than to others.

other than not replacing the whole dizzy, i feel like i should rebuild the carb as that probably should have been done years ago but since its my means of transport to work i dont want to screw up anything when i take it apart so i've avoided that until i get a 3 day vacation or so+ the car only is at 82k miles now and wasn't sure if it was really necessary.

Can anyone with an carbed 89 get clear pictures of their air cleaner housing's vac lines and where they are supposed to go? the three lines going into the bottom of the filter housing under the reed valve thing? I just feel like this has been my issue in that I have my lines messed up so something isn't functioning right and thats why my car is so damn slow.. I mean I have to keep it matted in 5th just to stay at 70mph on the highway and the car just kinda acts like I'm giving it minimal throttle or I have to sit at like 4.5k-5kish rpm in 4th(I swapped in the 5 speed to avoid this!)

I'm starting to loathe driving the car now though.. I mean it gets up to 70 pretty damn fast if you piss pound the poor thing by WOT shifting it at like 6k 1-3rd gear, but 4th the rpm's are unreasonably high at 70, and 5th i can rarely use since once i drop below 70 again i cant accelerate up to it due to sheer lack of power- i know the b3 isnt some power house but honestly i should be able to somewhat accelerate in 5th on flat ground....

on another note- rotors, pads, drums, shoes, ALL of the drum hardware, and wheel bearings have been replaced(within the last month). All wheels spin nice and freely when it's jacked up.

Anywho if you read through my book of a post that and can think of any thing I'd love the input since I like tinkering with it.

[Cory_Thurmond]

My carby car did this same thing i replaced Everything...EVERYTHING

Then did a weber swap

Never figured it out soo...for the love of god update this thread when you figure it out.

Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk

[tooldude]

[tooldude]

I have a link to 12 vacuum diagrams & 1 text list if you need them. It does not seem to open on most phones but will open from a computer. In the search box type in: vacuum diagrams for carbs.

[89 festevil]

if the weber swap was cheaper than what the car is worth at this point due to the rust i'd do it.

[89 festevil]

when i download and enlarge the images from your photobucket they still distort on a pc, was already in your thread tooldude. thats a bummer, for the most part i think i got it, so the vac line with the plastic valve in it with like 3 other lines going back to the manifold is the connected to the line closest to the front of the car, but a/c solenoid? might be different because i have a peach colored hash line on one of the lines-surely isnt white, that and well it doesn't have a/c. one is green though but the one with the plastic valve has a yellow hash line.

i'll post a picture tomorrow of my lines and maybe some one can spot if my lines are on wrong while im replacing the non existent rack and pinion boots given the tie rod ends even come off. - one small rip on the drivers side and it completely disintegrated within 2 10 mile drives *amazing*

[tooldude]

The check valve is connected to the front, as you're referring to it, and the green hash is connected to the rear. That leaves the peach hash connecting to the center. The peach is probably a discolored hash - a somewhat yellowed white or fading brown which is light tan. The center line might connect back to the electrical load solenoid on your car. I don't have a schematic without the A/C.