[89 carb]car hesitates under 3k-wont accelerate much in 5th gear.

[89 festevil]

The title says it all, I've sorted my vacuum issues out, I'm using an mr.gasket glass fuel filter now with EFI hose so it wont collapse under WOT and all the ignition parts are new (just swapped out my e3's for ngk's and the e3's had a good burn but were oil soaked..)


she'll fall flat on her face some times under 3k rpm- i usually have to ride the clutch the first two stops on my morning commute in first gear and i hate doing it but it just bogs. I let the car warm up for atleast 15 minutes before i make my trip to work and it seems the less i let it warm up the more pep it has getting up to speed-I'm only mentioning this because i let it warm up for a good 20 after work because the inside of my windows frost over for some reason.. but once i let it warm up that long 5th gear has no pull it seems.

the timing is set at like 16*(anything less and the chugging gets worse) instead of 10* or the car just chugs and wont even move, and I finally put a muffler on it and restricted the exhaust flow a little since there is no cat and it has 2.25 inch piping on it hoping it would help in this aspect.. it did *barely* as it climbed from 55-65 slower than molasses and had a hard time holding 65mph unless I was almost WOT(i've probably been getting 20MPG or less because of this..I'm filling up alot more often than I used to.)


I suppose no one really is going to have experienced the same issues I'm dealing with and will know what I can do so I figured I'd just ask if anyone could link me to what the stock setting for that white plastic adjustment screw screw on the back of the carb is supposed to be set at so I can try and tinker from there.. because i've found out it will hesitate at different times or just completely chug in 5th when i turn the screw counter clockwise if looking at the carb from the behind.



And as a unrelated side note. Apologies to bhearts if you read this- I'm currently shopping for a new car and cannot afford to purchase the UEL or any parts for my festiva at the moment really and I'm truly sorry for that, I figured it would be better to say this openly on the forum than to later have you shame me on it as I still have projects I'd like to do later in the year and your work is spot on.

[bhazard]

If its stock carb I immediately point at that. Lots of vacuum issues that could happen.

Try a compression test at all too? Just to rule out a burnt valve or something.

[bravekozak]

You need to use the search engine. Lots of posts from members with the same problem.

From personal experience, if you get rid of the stock feedback carb + computer, you eliminate about fifty possible problems. It is just not worth the diagnostic time.

[89 festevil]

You need to use the search engine. Lots of posts from members with the same problem.

If I got rid of the stock carb it wouldn't run? just kidding I know what your saying I just cant afford to throw $300 for a weber/rocketman swap at a car thats ready to fall apart due to it being so rotted that at any point in time my seat might drop through the floor.

I'll have to cross my fingers I'm approved for my loan in a few days here so i can get a new vehicle to DD while I disassemble and 'hybrid' so to say my titled car with the non titled EFI 93 so it's legal >.>

[Cory_Thurmond]

I had this problem.... I went through everything on the car I replaced everything with factory components and then I went back an even swap the carb for Weber carb an intake set up ,my timing was always a little off ( ran best at 15* out when i bought car and eventually had to advance to ~28* to get it to run up a hill )and I couldn't figure out what was wrong with it I even redid belt twice I finally found out that the rear of my crankshaft had Sheard and and causing me to have zero power transfered from the crank to the flywheel.

That problem costed me 700$

I ended up with an efi car with a donor motor. My 30 mpg that dropped to 23 mpg when i lost all power with carb

Is now at 38-40 mpg around town with very spirited driving.

Sent from my LG-H631 using Tapatalk

[Cory_Thurmond]

You need to use the search engine. Lots of posts from members with the same problem.

From personal experience, if you get rid of the stock feedback carb + computer, you eliminate about fifty possible problems. It is just not worth the diagnostic time.

The search engine on this forum is absolutely worthless if your using tapatalk ive never found anything on any subject ive searched.



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[tooldude]

Did this trouble begin at the time you assembled everything back together or was the engine operating ok and then developed the problem afterward?? The white plastic screw w/knob on back of the carb is for idle adjustment. It's possible that it's backed off enough to cause the engine dying. From behind the carb, turn clockwise to idle up (700 rpm is spec). You may be able to set your timing to spec if you increase idle adjustment, and possibly get better performance than you have now, even if there is some other problem. It's harder to troubleshoot with lots of possibilities & the Ign timing way off. Also, if the carb sat for a while and got somewhat gunked up, you may be able to add Seafoam to the gas and get it to clean out.