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  • Front axel replacement

    Next weekend my friend and I will replace the front axle of my car. I have the Haynes repair manual and it looks pretty straight forward. Are there any tips or advice you guys have for me? Maybe a tool list would be helpful so we don't get halfway through the job and realize we don't have a specific tool. How should I acquire a good front axle? My shocks and struts and pretty worn out too. Would it be a good idea to replace these while I'm replacing the front axle? What are good shocks and struts to get for my car? Keep in mind I hope to have this car for a long time!

    Cheers, Mason
    Festiva '89 L

  • #2
    You will be disconnecting your steering spindle so it would be a good time to replace other parts nut not a big deal.Sometimes axles come out hard.If there is room an air chisel with a flat end drives them out easily.2 pry bars on opposing sides can be effective.Sometimes just pushing in and giving a good yank out will work.If I absolutely cannot get one to budge I have snapped the retainer on the inner couple boot pulled it apart and installed the new joint into the existing couple and put a new strap on to hold the boot.Not ideal but more than one way to skin a cat.

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    • #3
      The biggest problem can be getting the half shaft out. Do a search and see what others have done. I have an old very big socket that fits over the spline. I use it like a slide hammer. I put the axle nut back on. Compress the half shaft and socket. Then quick and hard jerk the socket. They usually pop out.

      Reuse the old C clip. Do not use the C clip that comes with the new half shaft.

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      • #4
        When you replace the struts do the RIO strut and top hat mod.

        Borrow a tie rod remover from parts store. It can be done without removing the tie rods. But a lot harder.

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        • #5
          What's the RIO strut and top hat mod?

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          • #6
            The Rio struts have ball bearings in the top which makes the strut turn easier for steering but you have to take the strut apart which means comressing the springs and I just had my struts replaced reusing the old tops and the steering is fine. Your choice. Struts are not hard ot remove and put back os you could do that another time.

            BTW when pulling the axle out of the transmission gear oil will spill out of the hole. make sure you put a basin of some kind under the junction. I'm pretty sure teh Haynes manual mentions it but just to make sure. I use the pan I have for changin the crankcase oil.

            The axle nut is torques very tight (see the torque specs in the haynes manual). You might need to slip a length of pipe over the end of the socket driver and put all your weight on it to break it free, and to tighten it back on later. To keep the wheel from turning I wedge a long pry bar between a couple of the wheel lugs and the garage floor, putting them back in the wheel for that purpose.

            You don't actually have to dismantle the front end to the extent described in the manual. I think once you disconnect the lower end of the strut you can pull the wheel out far enough to remove the axle but I'd do a search of this site and check on that.

            Here are some pictures with descriptions which should help...
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            Last edited by WmWatt; 01-24-2016, 06:55 PM.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              You use 02 Kia Rio front struts and Top hat in place of Festiva parts. A little easier steering. Search the form for more info.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Studebaker View Post
                The biggest problem can be getting the half shaft out. Do a search and see what others have done. I have an old very big socket that fits over the spline. I use it like a slide hammer. I put the axle nut back on. Compress the half shaft and socket. Then quick and hard jerk the socket. They usually pop out.

                Reuse the old C clip. Do not use the C clip that comes with the new half shaft.
                Why should you not use the new c-clip?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • #9
                  Some report the newer C-clips are thicker than the original. I seem to recall a tip to position the gap in the C-clip at the top when reinstalling.
                  Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                  • #10
                    I'll use new E Clips
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                    • #11
                      You don't need no steenking tie rod tool! Just a BFH!

                      Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                      Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                      "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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                      • #12
                        Right. Just give the knuckle right where the tie-rod goes through a few good whacks with a hammer, and it should break loose. Pickleforks will tear up the tie-rod boots.
                        1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                        2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                        1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                        • #13
                          I use a small 2-prong puller on th etie rod end. The jaws are just long enough to grab on. I tighten it to put pressure on and then tap with a hamer to break free. If you happen to have a puller it helps and you don't have to hit the poor tie rod end as hard. If it's been on a long time the cotter pin can be difficult to extract. I seem to recall drilling one out. But I don't think I pulled the tie rod ends to replace axles. Just swing the knuckle out so the axle falls out of the hub. I looked at the photos and that looks like what's happening.
                          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                          • #14
                            ASE tech since 1985 99 percent of the time I use a hammer 2 seperate the tie rod ends its fast easy and doesn't mushroom the end or tear the boot.Pulling axles I made a tool not just for festys for most front wheel drive axles.Takea piece of square tubing bore a hole big enough to slide over the outer cv threaded section and put the nut back on straight across drill a hole big enough to put the shaft of your slide hammer through and replace the nut.Now a quick yank on the slide hammer will pull the most stubborn axles.
                            30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
                              I use a small 2-prong puller on th etie rod end. The jaws are just long enough to grab on. I tighten it to put pressure on and then tap with a hamer to break free. If you happen to have a puller it helps and you don't have to hit the poor tie rod end as hard. If it's been on a long time the cotter pin can be difficult to extract. I seem to recall drilling one out. But I don't think I pulled the tie rod ends to replace axles. Just swing the knuckle out so the axle falls out of the hub. I looked at the photos and that looks like what's happening.
                              Watch that video I posted just above, works on most cars, and you never have to touch the actual tie rod end, you hammer the knuckle.

                              Sent from my C6730 using Tapatalk
                              Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
                              Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
                              "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

                              Comment

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