Automatic to manual Guide

[ejp2fast]

another note: the clutch cable hole in firewall i don't THINK is in my auto...(I have everything for the swap, just waiting to do it) is it there or do i need to cut a hole..?

[ejp2fast]

another note: the clutch cable hole in firewall i don't THINK is in my auto...(I have everything for the swap, just waiting to do it) is it there or do i need to cut a hole..?

there is a hole.. the carpet was hiding it and it had a plug in it...

[ejp2fast]

got the pedal assembly in as dahodges was in town... a few notes. Pedals wise, all i got from the 5spd donor car was:
brake pedal, spring
clutch pedal, spring, and switch (I am not going to install the start switch)
long bolt and spacer that brake and clutch hinge from (auto has short bolt, you'll need the long)

I did not mess with the steering column at all... the only thing that is different from the auto and manual steering column from what i can tell is on the manual there is a little tab that is welded that holds the clutch cable and little clip... the auto doesn't have that. I don't think it will be a problem.
I did remove the seat (4 bolts 14mm).

One thing that made it much easier was when i had the old assembly out, I left the brake spring in... and so I drilled the new manual brake pedal hole where the spring goes in much bigger so i didn't have to pull the spring as hard and it is a pretty tight space up in there and this was much much easier....
install the spring first on the manual trans brake pedal, then move into position and put the long bolt through and then the spacer where the auto brake pedal went.
note: manual hinge bolt is LONG, auto hinge bolt is short.... you'll need the LONG one for the manual setup. hope this helps, hope to do the trans and new clutch within the next couple weeks.

[dahodges]

Just to add a note. Eric did not replace the clutch/brake pedal mounting bracket. That is the bracket that mounts to the firewall. He put manual petals on a auto bracket.

It appears the mounting bracket is the same weather it is a auto or manual.

The question is do you want to be reaching up behind or around things in tight spaces where you cannot see. Or do you want to mess with springs that won't easily hook onto brackets.

The pedals had bushing in them that liked to fall out. Put masking tape over them to keep then in place. Also place masking tape over the clutch cable/clutch pedal hook so that they do not fall apart.

Just replacing the pedals took about half a day. Replacing the whole pedal assy. will probley take a whole day.

David

[festivaWES]

If you needed a pedal assembly I'm only an hour or so away and have the whole thing. It's lying in my garage as we speak. I also have a spare clutch cable.

[ejp2fast]

I took apart the automatic shift assembly last night... now.. there is that cable that has the "button" on the end that keeps from taking the key out of the ignition with it in any other gear than park....what is the best way to crimp this so it stays "on" when you do the manual swap?

[ejp2fast]

Before I forget, here is one thing for all those out there planning to do this swap that will make the job easier.
When the engine and trans is still connected to the car, take the flywheel access cover off the automatic, and while the car is jacked up and still in park (don't take the shift assembly apart yet), loosen (don't remove) the 5 14mm bolts that connect the flywheel to the torque converter..... now, to do this, what you need to do is loosen one bolt, then take the car out of park and turn the crank to expose the next bolt.. put the car back in park (to lock the transmission), loosen the bolt, and repeat again until all 5 bolts are loose.
I did this the hard way... I took the shift assembly out, THEN disconnected the engine via 2 engine mounts (right front and left front) and the 1 transmission mount at the back of the engine, lowered the engine/trans assy a foot and a half (did not disconnect the fuel line or vacuum line) then my trans could come out without hitting the side of the engine compartment... now my engine is hanging free and the transmission is off, but i can't get those crazy 5 bolts off because I can't get torque on the bolt as the engine is hanging...
On the same note, when the engine is still secured to the vehicle, remove BOTH the CV axles.... again, this is because it is hard to get leverage when the engine is floating.
hope this makes sense...

[ejp2fast]

i'll do a write up when I am finished....

[ejp2fast]

Just got 'er running last night...took it around the block at 10:30pm.. had to do some clutch adjustment modification, and I include all that in the write up. Drove it to work this morning! I am excited!
3 spd automatic to 5spd manual what a difference in rpms!

[lasvegascop]

awesome!! Good job...after its all done and over with, you sit back and say"this wasnt all that bad?!" hahahahahah

[ejp2fast]

....yeah, thats true... its sure a good feeling of accomplishment!