Major electric issue - Please help

[lessersivad]

At Autozone I find FLM, FLF, FL and other fusible likks. Is there a "PAL fusible link"?

The "FLF" series is what you want. FLF-30 for the 2 outside and FLF-40 for the middle.

Hope this helps.

[meyek91974]

I have a FLF-40 and am about to replace it.
I have a question.
There's a guy at this other Autozone who, as he says, had his own shop and for health reasons he sold off the stress and for now works at Az. Now, I used to have a few Fords from 60s&70s where I would not worry about popping the clutch to start. However, the Az guy says that having fuel injection and more electronic stuff it surged, blowing the fuse link, when I popped the cluck to start and this car does not compare to a Maverick. Does this make sense as I don't fully get that???.

[meyek91974]

20160313_165816-1-1.jpg 20160313_171451-1-1-1.jpg
NOW HE STARTS RIGHT UP - THANKS!

[Bert]

I have a FLF-40 and am about to replace it.
I have a question.
There's a guy at this other Autozone who, as he says, had his own shop and for health reasons he sold off the stress and for now works at Az. Now, I used to have a few Fords from 60s&70s where I would not worry about popping the clutch to start. However, the Az guy says that having fuel injection and more electronic stuff it surged, blowing the fuse link, when I popped the cluck to start and this car does not compare to a Maverick. Does this make sense as I don't fully get that???.

That's a new one on me. In driving various 5 speed EFI Festys over 10 years I accumulated many weeks equivalent of driving with dead starter motors and related ailments by parking on hills and jump-starting the car. Out in the boonies in late winter I shredded an alternator/water pump belt one time and drove 100 miles by accelerating to 60, turning the engine off to cool and coast and then jump-starting just before it came to a stop. Had to do this multiple times to get her home without cooking the motor or depleting the battery. None of these shenanigans ever resulted in a blown fuse. Over the course of 20 years these exposed contact wire fuses are prone to oxidation though and as the conductive area decreases the warmer (which accelerates corrosion) the remainder becomes under load. Ultimately the wires burn through.
It's good you found the problem and even better that an upgrade fix is available.

[william]

Dubble post

[william]

Your fuse link was probably dirty and when your battery was fully dead it was charging hard and the added Corrosion and resistance made the link fail. Had the happen when I added a subwoofer the altinator had to work harder with the added amp draw and it blew the old link. Its a good ideal to clean the spades in the fuse block as well.
I think the guy from AZ is crazy they only problem I've had with a dead efi pop start is if the battery is totally dead you have to get going pretty fast to get any volts to get it to fire.

[Vedga]

You may also use 30a pal pink fuse for both outer one's to avoid future problems.

[meyek91974]

When pulling the old wires, I had to use a pointed needle fuse tester to scrub down in there and a straw to blow it out. I loaded it with dialectic grease and wiped the over spill.

I think I'm going to do the other two since we're only talking about a ten dollar bill.

Thanks again to those for the help!

[1990new]

Regarding dielectric grease.
It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low. It's OK where the two metal contacts are high pressure.
It's perfect for use on spark plug and distributor boots to seal out moisture, prevent arcing and make them easier to install and remove.

[bravekozak]

I think I'm going to do the other two since we're only talking about a ten dollar bill.

I get my PAL fuses from the junkyard. They don't charge for lug nuts, fuses, nuts and bolts.