93 EFI Festiva Cutting out and missing when I step on the gas going down the road

[Old70]

Mostly ok except when I increase or step on the throttle.

Plugs are good and I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the battery connections.

I wiggled the key and it doesn't seem to make any difference.

I'm looking for the PCV Valve and thinking throttle body maybe.

Any suggestions?

[bolokid]

Distributor cap and rotor?

[SiliconSoul]

Make sure your ect connection is good and isn't wiggling. If it is, its possible it has gone bad. Should throw a check engine light though... (Engine coolant temperature sensor - located passenger side under the last two fuel injectors.)

[jhli]

Distributor cap and rotor?

I second the distributor cap. Mine had a issue close to this but it was random.

[mikemounlio]

I have this very issue! I have figured it out as well.



#1 check the dizzy cap. If bad replace.
#2 Spark plug wires!!! This is my issue. I found out this was the issue when i was working on the car one night and while running i hit the throttle by hand under the hood in the dark. Sure enough i could see spark jump off the wire. As i saw the spak jump i could hear the stall.


Check you wires tonight. open hood rev motor look for spark jump.

[Old70]

I got a new cap and wires and plugs about a year ago but I'll check them anyway thanks

I'll check the ect

I don't think it has a rotor

I don't see a PCV Valve not sure if that would do it or not

[lessersivad]

I got a new cap and wires and plugs about a year ago but I'll check them anyway thanks

I'll check the ect

I don't think it has a rotor

I don't see a PCV Valve not sure if that would do it or not

It definitely has a rotor. If you didn't change it THAT could be the problem. If the end that swings past the terminals inside the distributor cap is burned back that could cause the symptoms described.

[ryanprins13]

It definitely has a rotor. If you didn't change it THAT could be the problem. If the end that swings past the terminals inside the distributor cap is burned back that could cause the symptoms described.

Yup, old rotor and new cap would still have issues. However a rotary motor from an rx7 in one of these would be cool!


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[Old70]

OK thanks I'll look at that

[bhazard]

Yup, old rotor and new cap would still have issues. However a rotary motor from an rx7 in one of these would be cool!


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Its been done. Hit up Neanderpaul aka Paul Mays.

[Old70]

I finally got back to fixing this. The weather had been bad. I found the PCV Valve at the end of the valve cover and it was really sluggish and thud sounding and dull and hardly moving so I changed it out and it solved my problem. Either that or it got well on it's own. I think it was the PCV Valve though. Thanks for the help.

[FestYboy]

Hate to say it but that makes 0 sense... Pcv works on vacuum and if it were stuck open you'd likely have high idle. But that's it. Once you open the throttle, the volume of air far exceeds the PVC capacity and it becomes a moot point. Also, the PVC is active all the time, not just when warm.
Don't get me wrong, I'm glad it's running better, but I'd suspect the issue may come back because we haven't properly found the fault.

[Old70]

Your probably right but what if grit was holding it shut even under high throttle?

[tooldude]

Plug the hose and see if you get the same symptoms, then you'll know.

[FestYboy]

Your probably right but what if grit was holding it shut even under high throttle?

Staying shut is no a problem, it's staying open that causes a false air reading (potentially). But again, after idle, the volume from that port is too small to make a difference.