so I completed my bp swap and while driving the car when my temp hits normal operating, the car will start to shudder and buck kinda like a ignition cut or fuel cut, I can turn the key off then back on and itll run fine for another few miles but then start doing the same thing again. It broke down on me the other day and it ended up being the main relay, however once I replaced that it still has this issue. any help would be appreciated because im running out of options. Ive changed the ignition coil out with a known to be good one and that didn't change the issue, also replaced the fuel pump. im thinking it could be a coolant temp sens, dizzy, or ecu? Ive also replaced the fuseable links with fuses and cleaned the terminals. thanks
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need help diagnosing engine cutting out
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O2 sensor?... One of the few sensors that only come online once you're up to temp.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Bad O2 sensor signal should light up check engine light and put car into loop back mode but not stop running?
If you think it's the fuel system you might check the filtre, the rubber hose into the filter which can collapse with age at the bend, and the screen in the tank.
Sorry, don't know any issues specific to B2 swap.Last edited by WmWatt; 03-21-2016, 09:50 PM.Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
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All the hoses in the engine compartment have been replaced including the fuel filter when I did the swap recently, I'll check the hose at the fuel tank. It's not the ecu because the stock one does it also. I may throw a o2 sensor in since this one is old but I don't think it would cause this issue1991 stiva.
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need help diagnosing engine cutting out
Wish i had a good idea but i dont. Sounds like a fuel cut to me but you replaced most of the components for that. What gap are your spark plugs? If their too tight it could maybe cause that but running fine after a key cycle doesn't fit.. How do the plugs look? Too lean? Too rich? Too hot? They can tell you a lot if you know what to look for.
Also Theoretically the ecu could be leaning out your afr or adjusting spark timing once operating temp is reached when you cycle they key it resets and after a few minutes does it again. So check your spark and valve timing? Perhaps a bad fuel injector that only malfunctions when the fuel pressure lowers or its trying to give a certain pulse. Just throwing out stupid ideas here...
O2 sensors turn on before full operating temp is reached but they can have a super wide range without throwing a code. You have one installed meant for the 1.8 rather than the 1.3 right? Swapping it for another is a quick and good thing to try anyway.
Sorry i cant be of more help..
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by ryanprins13; 03-23-2016, 01:39 PM.
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Tonight once dark go start the car and get it to temp. Once to temp open hood and rev the motor by hand. Look at the spark plug wires. Look for spark jump. If you see any spark at all you need new cables. If spark jumps it robs power at that very second and you will feel it (buck). Mine is doing it now as well. My plugs look fine but the far drivers side plug let the spark jump out. When i went to rev it i could hear it miss kinda. Did it again and i saw the spark at the same time as the miss. Boom thats my problem. It might not help you but its worth a shot as it will be dark soon no matter where you are...1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD
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