New rear brakes drums wont go on.

[mainline]

Hi Cory, I am not that familiar with the rear drum brakes on our Festivas, but if the drum brake system is similar to other drum brake systems, the brake shoes would have lining that is 2 different lengths. They are generally referred to as the primary and secondary shoes. From your photo it appears that the long lined shoes are installed on the same side of your car. I hope this helps.

[Cory_Thurmond]

All four pads are the same. I got the passenger side together... Bout to start the driver side now. Ill post back up in an hour or 2

A tip I found while trying to figure out the tightening of the rear bearing spindle nut. I was told to tighten down the spindle nut until the bearings are seated just barely hand tight, then proceeded to back off the spindle nut just a bit to where you can take a flat head screwdriver and just barely move the washer with effort. Then add your lock washer and your Carter PIN your lock washer and you should be good to go.

Hopefull this works as i over tightened one last time i beleive. (so im replacing them)

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[bhazard]

Are the parking brake levers unsiezed? Thats what adjusts the brakes.

[Cory_Thurmond]

Nothing is seized or Rusty I take apart everything a hundred percent when I fix it and I clean all the parts there that is not the issue

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[tooldude]

Check the adjuster mechanism below the wheel cylinder (with ratcheting teeth). The adjustment cam may not be in the lowest position, it could have slipped up a couple of teeth during installation. You may need to separate the pieces and push the cam to its lowest position.

[WmWatt]

Was thinking a way to check for roundness is to tie a loop in one end of a string and put it over the spindle. Then pull tight, mark edge of shoe on string and move string in circle around spindle. Should show if one shoe is farther from spindle than other, if tops are farther out than bottoms, or other non-roundness.

[mikemounlio]

Dont over think it man. Drum brakes are just a pain in the arse no matter what you do. When i did the festiva rears i made sure everything was all set in place and ready for the drums. The lft side went on about 3x easier then the right. Both side were hard to get on tho. I found that once you have the brakes all in place and ready for the drums you can slide the shoes up or down while still attached. Once i found the sweet spot i was able to get the drums to slide over the shoes with a bit of pressure. I had to use a rubber hammer to full set the drums. The the axle nut went nice and easy.

Drums just suck man. They need to go on tight tho.

[Cory_Thurmond]

K im going to bleed the brakes and run them tomorrow then

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[1990new]

Check the adjuster mechanism below the wheel cylinder (with ratcheting teeth). The adjustment cam may not be in the lowest position, it could have slipped up a couple of teeth during installation. You may need to separate the pieces and push the cam to its lowest position.

Agree... This was my problem the first time I changed the shoes on my first Festiva years ago. That self adjusting mechanism with the teeth
can fool you in to believing it is all the way back when it really isn't.

[Cory_Thurmond]

The self-adjusting mechanism so far back that is not even connected in till you tap it a little bit in the he will lock back together again and it's still very tight like even with the wheel and I have to force the wheel to turn

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[sketchman]

^ Mine was the same. I like Mike's theory.

They just suck. Beat em on. Run em tight. I was amazed how much better my hand brake works after I changed everything. It's like night and day. Tight is right.

[Cory_Thurmond]

They are dragging to the point that the passenger side is making a noise going down the road. Bearings are all new and packed with hi temp marine grade grease. I guess im gonna try to drive it to work and put 120 miles on it...
Seems to drive better and my brakes are definatly working better. Just hope it not a bearing issue.

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[WmWatt]

You can feel the hubs for heat. Warm is okay if you've been braking.

[Cory_Thurmond]

Well they were definatly warm every time i touched them. Not to hot to touch but they smell like burnt brake fluid ? So i guess i gotta yank them apart tomorrow. See if i got anything leaking.. (honestly ill probably give it a few days since my fluod has not moved)

Put 119 miles on it. Seemed to brake to well... Locked up my 12s a few times before i got used to having a brake pedal. They feel like they are dragging for sure.




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[F3BZ]

recently did my zx2 brakes which are same toothed cam. couple tips that made it easy. 1st, make sure the serrations or teeth on then PB mechanism are clean and and rust/dirt free using wire brush or wheel or even small jewelry file. make sure the swiveling cam also slides left and right. when installing, set the cam as pictured (drivers side shown) totally disengaged. this allows maximum shoe retraction for easier drum install. start car and pump up brakes and then while mashing pedal fairly hard, pull up on E brake handle. do this a few times to set the shoes and PB mechanism. then adjust cable as necessary at E brake console. good luck.