A/C Not Cool Enough

[Tim]

I talked to an O'Reilly guy who was a former A/C technician and he suggested I converted to R-134a. It would be a bit easier on my wallet if I did in the long run.

However, I was told I have to buy a new compressor and Receiver/Drier in order to do this. Couldn't I just flush out the compressor and R/D with acetone and use 134a oil? If it can't be done I'm sticking with R-12.

Regardless, I'm going to flush out and re-oil everything. Will acetone damage the R/D?

BTW, half my problem was the evaporator - some spots were so jammed up with crap and hair I couldn't even see the fins. A bath and scrubbing with a toothbrush took care of this.


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

There is no reasonable way to check for leaks, out of the car. As to reseal a compressor (if they sell a kit) would take some special tools and alot of time( buy a rebuilt w/warranty!).

before trying 134a ( which price has doubled recently due to some plant closure?!?!), look into some alternate refrigerants like Freeze 12 and a few others ( i think they are on EPA's web site ) , can be cheaper and sometimes outperform 134a!! do your homework online! i currently use freeze 12 on most of my conversions, and it seems to do an excellent job!

[FB71]

don't bother converting to R134a, unless you chance a bunch of stuff. The condenser for r134 has a higher # of tubes and fins per inch than an r12 piece, because r134 is less thermally efficient. Also, you cannot flush a R/D, it must be replaced. there's a bag with desiccant inside, which will hold oil, debris, and any other chemical you put in there. Also, never flush with acetone, it attacks the rubber lines. Use denatured alcohol. I'd go with a drop-in r12 replacement, as suggested above. If you really have to switch, just drain the compressor, replace the R/D, and use Ester oil, not PAG or mineral. Ester is more compatible with mineral oil and r134 than PAG is. PAG is only for virgin r134 systems.

[Tim]

Thanks for all the tips!

I'll stick with R-12 as it seems too much of a hassle to switch over to 134a.

Can Freeze-12 be bought without a licence?



Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

i do not know about general public sales of Freeze 12, nor do i know where you can purchase it,but there has not been a problem with my wholesaler on a purchase( by the case)

[Tim]

Thanks!

I doubt it's available to the public since it likely will harm the enviroment, but there's always that chance. :wink:

What I probably'll end up doing is buying a couple cans from my mechanic and doing the charging myself.

I'll post the results when I get them. Hopefully this compressor won't be a piece of crap like the other.


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

check here for refrigerants:

https://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/macssubs.html

[Tim]

don't bother converting to R134a, unless you chance a bunch of stuff. The condenser for r134 has a higher # of tubes and fins per inch than an r12 piece, because r134 is less thermally efficient. Also, you cannot flush a R/D, it must be replaced. there's a bag with desiccant inside, which will hold oil, debris, and any other chemical you put in there. Also, never flush with acetone, it attacks the rubber lines. Use denatured alcohol. I'd go with a drop-in r12 replacement, as suggested above. If you really have to switch, just drain the compressor, replace the R/D, and use Ester oil, not PAG or mineral. Ester is more compatible with mineral oil and r134 than PAG is. PAG is only for virgin r134 systems.

I flushed the evaporator pipes out and the A/C lines, and put new O-rings in. Before I sink a dime into charging this, I want to be reasonably sure it's going to work. I presume the Receiver/Drier should be OK, since it came from a charged and pressurised system originally and worked fine until the demise of the compressor. From that point on it remained sealed except for maybe 10 minutes (stretched out into 2 minute periods) while I was pulling pipes and stuff out and reassembling them. Other than that the whole system has been sealed.

The compressor was a real bitch to work with. I had a difficult time getting it into position, because I had to manoeuvre it up from under the car, soaking me with oil in the process. I finally got it all hooked up, oiled, and connected only to discover I had lost my idler pulley and that some idiot had cut the connector off the end of the wire.

The clutch engages OK, but the whole compressor is covered in oil. Would that cause the clutch to slip?

Also, are you supposed to put Oil on the O-rings before connecting the pipes, like when replacing the engine oil filter?


Regards,

Tim

[mechanicaldj]

the problem i see is that when the compressor took a dump, the receiver/drier may have particles from the compressor which maybe released during your next recharge and pushed into your thermostatic valve causing future problems. that is one of the reasons if you buy a new or rebuilt compressor they say to replace the r/d and flush the system.

[Tim]

Good point.

However, the old compressor just leaked. It was still intact and I came across nothing unusual when I flushed the system and replaced the TXV. The old valve looked fine to me - no clogs or anything - but I'm not an A/C expert.

I suppose it couldn't hurt to get another R/D but that's an expense I'd like to avoid if at all possible.

At least I lucked out on the compressor. I had the sense to buy a warrantee on it so I went and exchanged it for another.

What do you think I should do?


Regards,

Tim

[FB71]

you're safe if the compressor didn't grenade. I never changed r/d's on leakers and never had a prob.

[Tim]

Ok.

I'll see what happens when I charge the system. I'm still concerned about the oil on the clutch, but I suppose it could be blown off with compressed airs or something.


Regards,

Tim

[FB71]

oil on the a/c clutch? just spray it off with some brake cleaner.

[luv2uallday]

Hey, wouldn't it be cheaper to just by a remanufactured compressor for your festy, autozone carries one from maker cardone for 150.00$ and the receiver dryer you can by brand new from 2 vendors sourced in California My ford dealership gave me a list of places that still stock new receiver dryers for this car. Just for your FYI a junkyard component should be the last resort of last resorts they pose more problems than any solution to your problems

[aithanmier]

are you kiddin? junkyards are a festiva owners best friend!