Crankshaft Parallel Key

[1990new]

Here I am just about ready to put the timing sprocket and crank pulleys on Rosie's new engine and the only
Parallel key I have is the one that came out of Bessie's original engine back in 2000.
It deformed as the crank keyway was being wallowed out. I saved it for reference.

The end that is least deformed measures 5.15 x 4.97 mm Not sure what the true original dimensions are supposed to be.
Anyone know a source for these keys?

[1990new]

After further searching.. I came across this.
Is this the same one as in our 22mm crank nose Festivas?
http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...252d317A).html

They call it a woodruff key but it isn't the half coin shaped one.

Someone is asking $20 for one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Miata-...-/350920141719

[azgtx]

I am reading this as you have replaced the motor/crank. That was the dreaded short nose crank failure starting on the old motor. There was a locktite fix for that on the Yahoo GTX forum years ago iirc. Fill it with locktite and put in the new key, then the gear and stack washers in the bolt hole to hold the key from backing out and torque to 135ft/lbs. Not saying that I would do this..some did and I think it worked but not too good for getting it apart again..but at that point oh well. Take it for what it is worth. Go to Mazda and there is an upgraded bolt and key available. Which motor/crank are you using now?

[1990new]

I am reading this as you have replaced the motor/crank. That was the dreaded short nose crank failure starting on the old motor. There was a locktite fix for that on the Yahoo GTX forum years ago iirc. Fill it with locktite and put in the new key, then the gear and stack washers in the bolt hole to hold the key from backing out and torque to 135ft/lbs. Not saying that I would do this..some did and I think it worked but not too good for getting it apart again..but at that point oh well. Take it for what it is worth. Go to Mazda and there is an upgraded bolt and key available. Which motor/crank are you using now?

Thanks for the info.
Rosie (my 92 GL) has a build date of 12/23/1991 and the original engine is in her now (the one that is smoking) so she has the small nose (22mm diameter) and short nose (22mm depth into the sprocket) crankshaft.
The new short block that I bought for her has the same crankshaft as the one in her now so I will need to use the same sprocket, key and bolt.

I called the local Mazda dealer this morning and they ordered a new key (Part # B630-11-317A $5 and change) for me, which will be here tomorrow. The new bolts were $17 so I passed on that.

The extra bolt I have is in good shape and I will be generous with the locktite and torque the bolt to spec.
I had an extra sprocket, pulleys and crank bolt on the shelf, so I will not have to pull the ones from Rosie's original engine.

I caused the problem myself with the deformed key and crank wallowing back in 2000 since, when I had first changed the timing belt on Bessie, I did not use locktite nor torque to spec. Had I know then what I know now, I would have saved myself a big headache.

Both Bessie (My original 1990) and Nellie (Yellow 1990) subsequently had brand new post 1992 engines installed in them so they currently have the 27mm cranks.

[1990new]

Picked up the Key at Stokes Mazda today. With tax it was $6.03 and it fits perfectly.
They call it a Woodruff key on the packaging and the receipt. So the controversy over
calling the half coin shaped key woodruff and the straight key parallel is being ignored by Mazda.

[azgtx]

Should get the bolt..they upgraded it for a reason to take the extra torque to 135ftlbs...17 bucks is nothing for that fix compared to what it will do.

[1990new]

Too late...guess I'll take my chances with the super strength locktite. I also torqued a little over the service manual recommendation to 100ftlbs. Being that the crank is new I think it will hold pretty well.

[1990new]

Got to thinking and wondered if it's too late to change my mind and get a new bolt.
I called Mazda parts and they only have one bolt for the short nose crank and the torque specs is still 87, but
I'm also finding recommendations on the Miata sites to use 97-104 with a new bold and locktite blue.
I used locktite red and 100 on the old bolt.
So I ordered the new bolt.
My question now is should I try to get the old bolt out now (it will in 24 hours at about 8:00PM today)?
Which option has the least risk of damaging the thread in the new crank?

[tooldude]

The chart on the Permatex package shows Red High Strength has a break rating around 20 lb-ft based on 3/8-16 steel, but no length specified. I would use a 6-point socket and anticipate at least 20 lb-ft additional force, or more, removing the bolt. I once used Red on something I can't recall now, but I do remember an extra loosening force. It didn't damage any threads. Uses on the package I have includes camshaft and crankshaft bolts, studs, and ring gear bolts, etc., so, fasteners that may need removal. The implication is that it will not grip steel threads enough to pull them out, besides the reasonableness of recommending those applications. The rating for the Red is only about double the rating for Blue.

[Greywolf]

You might try heating it up real thoroughly with a heatgun before the attempt to pull it out

[1990new]

Thanks tooldude and Greywolf for the advice.
I have the new bolt and I will try to do the remove and replace with the new this afternoon.
I also read that I should clean the bolt and the hole with brake or carburetor cleaner to make sure all grease and oil
is gone before I put the new one in.

[1990new]

All went well. Took a lot of force with the power handle to remove the bolt but it seemed to come out smothe
and showed not apparent damage to the threads inside or the old bolt.
I cleaned the hole and the bolt with brake cleaner, coated it with a generous amount of Locktite red and
torqued the new bolt to 100 ftlb
I expect it to hold for at least 200,000 miles.

[tooldude]

Great news!! but why only 200,000, is that when you're going to start running the nitromethane?

[1990new]

Great news!! but why only 200,000, is that when you're going to start running the nitromethane?

By the time the engine in Rosie turns over 200,000 I won't be concerned...I expect what's left of me will be generating methane.
Nellie currently reads 102K and Trixie 92K. Rosie is already promised to my oldest grandson and he can't get his license for two more years.

[1990new]

Today I took the crank pulley off the old engine in Rosie and the pulley, key and crank snout look perfect.
I suspect the pulley has never been pulled since it was new.
Now I have a spare engine to rebuild in my spare time. I will remove the pistons after I finish
putting the new engine in Rosie.