Looking for experienced carb fondlers.

[xt01815]

Just got an 89 L. I suspect that on of the linkages that move the larger butterfly is slightly bent. I was wondering if someone had an exploded view of that area. Or a bunch of pictures of an uninstalled unmolested carb, that I can refer to. If pictures of mine are needed then you may have to wait a bit cause Im not so computer savy.

[bravekozak]

Not worth fixing. Switch to an Escort carb.

[UglyEd]

If ur on the fence about fixing the old i would definitely look into getting the rocketman adapter and an early escort carb, i have an 89 with 81 escort carb i did my own adapter wish i would have used a rocketman one, hes on here just do a search, took a few tries getting it lined out but it runs soo good with an escort carb. Not sure how hard it would be to fix the original mine was fine but i wanted rid of all the sensors and vacuum lines.

Uglyed and the Steve

[xt01815]

Sounds great, But I dont have access to those parts right now, Not willing to spend the money either. Its starts somewhat ok, 1/4 throttle it dies, unless I gag it, then itll rev just fine. Besides this is only temporary till i swap all my inj stuff in to it from my tiva parts yard lol. The plan is to have as little down time as possible. While each weekend, trying to swap a whole system. Suspen & wheels, windshield, Cough cough dash cough, then finally the motor trans lines & tank, etc. Each system will hopefully go in, in a weekends time with out too much hassle though I expect it. I know that ill be taking the carb apart a bit to clean up but unless the carb body is cracked, I can usually fix them without spending anything. Right now I dont have any manuals or references to go by for the carbs except for adjustments. Mostly wanting to verify the correct orientation of the linkages springs and pins on the throttle cable side. Everything else would greatly be appreciated for if there is a need to really open it up.

[xt01815]

So I took the carb apart today. Or technically yesterday. The first impressions obviously do it justice lol. It is so freakin simple "internally". The linkages is as I said before is what threw me off. Thanks to the massively overwhelming references and pics. I think I finally figured out the orientation of them. a couple were bent, spring for the larger butterfly needed another turn (to make it stronger). The jet for that same port (larger one) was clogged half way. One vac line had a hole. While another that goes to Im guessing is the egr wasn't even attached. Plus the wire for the elec choke was frayed. After all said and done. I just got everything reinstalled at 1:30 am. After a bit of pulling the wifeys hair and some zzz's. Ill be getting my little buddy fatty num num's over here to help me with an extra set of peepers. Hopefully ill have a bit of progress to where alls i have to do is dial in all those freakin adjustment screws, cause of coarse the couldn't have been left alone before I got it lmao. Wish me luck fellow festard's, unit 45 out!?!?!?

[F3BZ]

[1990new]

Now stop teasing the poor guy with that eye candy

[xt01815]

As usual Im late to the party. And those Pics are awesome. I searched for 4 hours on the interweb. And came up with only 1 picture, ONLY 1. I will be definitely saving those. Thank you very much F3BZ!!! So back to the story. bravekozak said "Not worth fixing. Switch to an Escort carb." Be it as it may I stuck to my word of fixing carbs. Most of the time people like me dont have cold hard cash or the resources for things like that. On the other hand, also people like me have very good friends and are more willing to work with you, to see you get going rather than sitting there losing hope. Which is kinda why I started this thead to show a little determination may just save you a lot, or in my case $332.00 for new fest carb, $206.79 for new 81 escort carb. So a few cigs, a few cans of mountain dew, and a total price of free 99. The car is absolutely screamin now. As for adjustments I only put the outside ones to where they are just barely touching. Mind you with a totally dry carb, it started within the first 5-10 seconds of cranking. As the engine is warming up, the choke was working properly. At operating temp, I blipped the throttle and it sounded like my 1948 ford 8n tractor idling. But it never died, a couple turns of the screw fixed that quickly. Ofcoarse this is only temporary but after i get the plugs ran through my repair box, hopefully that will straighten out my sputter and vibration. A lot of thanks goes to shadetree, and ottoparts for the opportunity's they provided for me.

[WmWatt]

The carburettor in the photos doesn't have the glass viewing window next to the idle adjustment (white plastic screw). It has a place for it with two screw holes but it's been plugged.

[xt01815]

The carburettor in the photos doesn't have the glass viewing window next to the idle adjustment (white plastic screw). It has a place for it with two screw holes but it's been plugged.

Thats ok its not all that important if your smeller is broke, then you can look in the glass. If your already half blind like me then just sniff for strong smelling fuel.

[F3BZ]

i know nothing about it. pics are from an ebay auction awhile ago.

[xt01815]

Either way those are some awesome pics. Thanks again!!! Today ill be soaking my piston rings in acetone. There for my donor motor. But this subject is for another thread. I will obviously leave this one for those looking for help with carbs. Ive read on here before that people get all too discouraged from them (carbs) and more often than not these great little cars go to the junk yard because of it. If I get another carb. Ill try to do a write up on complete tear down and rebuild and what to look for. I really hope that would help sway people on a tight budget not to trash what they have. Causing them to search for swaps, adapters, and how to's just because someone chimes in a post with 8 words like "Not worth fixing. Switch to an Escort carb." Not putting ANYONE down but that says to me that there's more money than available resources. Unless the body is severely cracked they can usually be saved. That goes for almost all carbs. You should only "swap" stuff because you have the full replacement available to you. Most people dont so they must learn how they need to approach the problem. Hence me asking for help, information came a little late. But over all the information is here now for those that need it to fix what they have, Not to have to adapt and modify what they dont. Obviously the exceptions would be known parts that are designed bad and fail. I agree these carbs are over built. But they have been doing what they've been designed to do since these cars first came out.