help new festiva Very Hard to Start

[blaze]

to start it i have to hold gas half way while turning it over. Then release key and gas at same time. starter fluid doesnt help. ive bought a new coil. compression is around 215psi straight across. papers in glove box show carb was rebuilt 2 years ago. could it be vaccum related? To me it seems to be spark.

[blaze]

also seems to do nothing when turning. when i release the key thats when it will try and fire up

[dalebwilson]

A close examination of plugs, distributer cap, rotor, wires would be a good start. These all need to be clean, dry and corrosion free. If your plugs are wet fouled, that could be an indication of a rich fuel mixture. All of these plus ignition timing could lead to a difficult start.


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[firebush357]

I was born to late and know nothing about Carburetors... Good Luck.

[WmWatt]

starting procedure from owner's manual is pump gas 3-4 times then hold pedal half way to floor while cranking. if my car has been standing for a few days which is normal I may have to do that 2-3 times. I suspect the fuel evaporates out of the float bowl and has to be refilled before the car will start. after the engine is running about 10 seconds it says to press and release the pedal to turn off the automatic choke after which the idle speed drops to normal (about 750 rpm). lift the top off the air filtre and look into the carbuettor. if it looks dirty try spraying with carburettor cleaner. I spray mine once a year. A no start situation is usually air/fuel or spark. Common test for spark is to pull spark plug wire and hold 1/4" from engine and watch for bright spark while avoidign getting a shock but since the engine runs once started it doesn't sound like an ignition problem. Kind of eliminates a dirty the fuel filtre and failing fuel pump too. Sounds like a wiring problem. Try spraying WD-40 or contact cleaner into the keyhole in the ignition. That has been a source of problems with starting, lights, wipers, and fan - all controled from the steering column. Hope some of that helps. Good luck.

[FestYboy]

Given the symptoms, I have to agree with WmMatt. Most likely situation is the coil isn't seeing power while the key is in the crank position. Test this by disconnecting the starter solenoid lead (so you don't kill the battery during testing), and with a multimeter or test light, see if there is voltage present at the positive terminal of the coil with the key in the crank position.

[firebush357]

Given the symptoms, I have to agree with WmMatt. Most likely situation is the coil isn't seeing power while the key is in the crank position. Test this by disconnecting the starter solenoid lead (so you don't kill the battery during testing), and with a multimeter or test light, see if there is voltage present at the positive terminal of the coil with the key in the crank position.

Pull the coil wire out of the distributor and hold onto to the end of it while the other hand is on the engine block then have a buddy turn it over!!! :tm::sign7::sign7::sign7::violent2:


Just Kidding!!! DO NOT DO THIS!!!

[TominMO]

also seems to do nothing when turning. when i release the key thats when it will try and fire up

That's interesting. How does it run when started?

Three things:
1. Whenever I buy a used car, if it has starting problems I automatically empty a bottle of fuel system cleaner into the gas tank. Drive it for 100 miles or so, and sometimes that was all that was needed.
2. Any chance the spark plug wires are on wrong? Just thinking of the basics.
3. Another thing I budget on a new-to-me car is about $100 for tune-up parts (including plug wires and O2 sensor), hoses, and belts. Just to address the most common stuff that leaves you on the side of the road, perk up the power/fuel economy, and have a known base for future troubleshooting.

[bravekozak]

Remove the fuel level sender and peek into the gas tank with a flashlight. Do not use a match! Let us know what you see inside the bottom of your tank and also what the windings look like on your fuel level sender.

[fezzy]

Symptom of it starting when releasing key is similar to cars fitted with ballast resistor type set up.
Chrysler I once had did this, turn the key to start and nothing till I let go of the key, would run then stop.
Changed the ballast resistor fixed it, cos they burn out.

Some have put these in after market, apparently to keep the coil cooler.
Have a look if one has been fitted.

Some FAQ on what it is

http://www.atomic4.com/faqres.htm

[lessersivad]

Try spraying WD-40 or contact cleaner into the keyhole in the ignition. That has been a source of problems with starting, lights, wipers, and fan - all controled from the steering column. Hope some of that helps. Good luck.

^^^ THIS ^^^ I once had a 1990 that had pretty much the same symptoms with the ignition switch. Once it was running the key had to be placed in a certain position towards the 'start' for it to stay running. I was fortunate enough to source a different ignition switch and that solved the issue.