"Suppression capacitor" vs "condenser"

[jawja jim]

What is the difference? The little thing attached right next to the vacuum advance on the distributor on my 89 auto has been in bad shape since I got the car, just a few strands of the wire still connected. Last night it gave out and broke. Looking in the FSM at the dizzy illustration, and the write up, it's called the "suppression capacitor" and then on another pic a "radio supression capacitor". In the EVTM diagram it is labeled "condenser". Same thing? Are these things available? Can a generic "radio condenser" from AZ be used to replace it. The AZ write up for the part says "When not replaced, vehicle may experience radio interference, no spark and/or no-start". The "no start" part is what had me looking at it to begin with. No values of capacitance are mentioned in any of the manuals or in the specs on AZ. I had always thought these were just to keep static noise out of the radio until I read the "no start".

[tooldude]

Condenser & capacitor are two words for the same thing, condenser, I believe, being an old term from at least Marconi radio days up into the tube electronics period. Old cars with points always had them, as most, if not all, made RF electrical interference (which you could hear) and affected most car radios. In many manuals I've read that the capacitor can create a no-start. I believe that may only occur if the capacitor develops an internal short, causing a ground at the coil. Its purpose was to absorb & dampen the voltage spike created when points open. Years back, I removed the capacitor on 3 different vehicles as a test - don't remember what vehicles. Only 1 would not start with it off. My carbie will start without it. I believe those were all 50 mfd. capacitors. The OEM one off my car measured 50 mfd. I went to a NAPA about 7 years back and asked for the old type capacitor & the guy walked right back & picked one off the shelf. Measured it on my Fluke meter - 50 mfd. - has a metal case & screw-down terminal. Another thing that would make a stronger RF noise was running non-resistor spark plugs with metallic core wires. One or the other has to have resistance for suppression.

[jawja jim]

I guess I'll try and replace mine with an AZ one , which is as you described-metal can with one lead. I assume the case is the ground on this style. I suppose a $12-14 experiment isn't too bad. This car has been having sporadic dying/not restarting issues that come and go and then it works fine until the next time it doesn't. It just makes for a mental debate about waiting for traffic to clear up totally before pulling out. Thanks.

[bravekozak]

I just checked and E8BZ-18832-A is out of stock at Rear Counter.

[jawja jim]

That looks like what I used to have. Thanks for looking. I got the generic at AZ under $12, so experiment time. I really don't expect it to cure the dying/no start issue, but it will replace what does have a 2 part lead. It's hard to figure out something when it's so sporadic and goes for months with no problems.