Brakes went out

[FestYboy]

The only plug thing I see is the coil wire...

As for the flair nut, you can get new ones at most parts stores. Replacing it will require either re-flairing the line after cutting the tip and replacing the nut, or replacing the line with one that's pre-built.

[WmWatt]

That looks like the high voltage wire between the ignition coil and the distrubutor. It should go into the centre of the distrubutor cap. No way the engine will fire up with it disconnected, no spark at the spark plugs.

Brake line fittings at any auto parts store - ask for Japanese metric. (The other two standards are European metric and non-metric (SAE American).)

[fudge]

IMG_1324.jpg

Circled in red is the plug and where it is attached to, so where exactly do I put the other end? Is the thing it's plugged into the distributor or the ignition coil?
I also circled the stripped nut because I noticed it was in the picture.
Thanks guys, I think I'll try to get a new nut and make it work!

[FestYboy]

There's a tower post on the coil at the driver shock tower, and a tower post in the center of the dizzy. Which ever doesn't have a wire attached, that's where it goes.

[WmWatt]

Re nut: You'll notice the nut doesn't slide off the line because the end of the line is flared to make a seal. You'll either have to buy a new piece of brake line with the flared ends and the nuts already on it, or cut the line, slip the new nut over the end and flare the cut end with a flaring tool which can usually be borrowed for free from parts stores with a tool loaner program. When I replaced the brakeline on my car it was cheaper to buy pieces of brake line with the nuts and flared ends than to buy the nuts separately and flare the ends myself. In your case, assuming you don't have any experience flaring brakes lines, I'd just buy a new piece of brake line with the nuts and flared ends and use it to replace the line with the stripped nut. You have to buy a piece at least as long as the one you are replacing but it's somewhat flexible so a bit longer is not a problem.

[fudge]

hey guys I'm trying to change my brake lines and in the rear when I try to get either the metal line or the rubber line nuts off both sides spin. The nut that I turn spins and the other side it is attached to spins resulting in nothing happening except twisting the lines. I am trying to clamp the other side with a vice grip but its not seeming to work. Any tips or suggestions?

[FestYboy]

Are the retention clips missing? The soft lines are supposed to recess into a keyway to keep them from spinning while loosening the hard lines.

[WmWatt]

solvent and a wire brush sometimes releases stubborn fastneners

[firebush357]

You have to use 2 wrenches, 1 on the Rubber line side to keep it from moving and the 10mm on the Hard line should be the one to loosen.

Also, from the looks of the Coil wire, I'm pretty sure that should be the side that plugs into the Center of the Distributor.

[fudge]

so I tried again and again but I could not get that brake line off so I ended up taking it to the shop. I got the new brake booster, new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, and new brake lines. They said I need a new master cylinder because the pedal is still doing nothing. I just looked online and I realised that I did not take the right steps in installing the new master cylinder which is adding brake fluid before hand and adjusting the rods and everything. I just don't have time to work on my car these days! I needed my car back yesterday! The master cylinder I got from jfd64 was rustier than the one I had originally.
Should I order a new master cylinder or go to the shop with brake fluid and try to fix it in the parking lot myself? I'm just a mess with my festiva stbu

[1990new]

so I tried again and again but I could not get that brake line off so I ended up taking it to the shop. I got the new brake booster, new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, and new brake lines. They said I need a new master cylinder because the pedal is still doing nothing. I just looked online and I realised that I did not take the right steps in installing the new master cylinder which is adding brake fluid before hand and adjusting the rods and everything. I just don't have time to work on my car these days! I needed my car back yesterday! The master cylinder I got from jfd64 was rustier than the one I had originally.
Should I order a new master cylinder or go to the shop with brake fluid and try to fix it in the parking lot myself? I'm just a mess with my festiva stbu

Sorry you are still having trouble getting your brakes to work correctly.
Are all your new lines and wheel cylinders connected now? If the shop put the master cylinder on for you they should have bench bled it and made sure it was good before they put it on. Rust on the outside of a master cylinder does not mean that it is not good inside. Master cylinders are much easier to replace than boosters and you could easily do it yourself if you want to buy a new one...if you do, bench bleed it before you install it. So is your Festiva sitting in the parking lot of the Shop? How far away from home is the shop? Do you Emergency brakes work? Have you already paid the shop for all the work they did and did that include installing the master cylinder? If so, they really should install the a new master cylinder for you and then bleed the brakes. Did you ask them about that?

[fudge]

Everything is connected yes. I installed the master cylinder and brake booster but I did not bench bleed it and I am thinking this may be the problem. I think the shop said they tried to bleed the brakes or they couldnt because of the master cylinder which I thought was weird because it should all be working. I am thinking the problem is that I ddid not bench bleed the master cylinder before hand. I have not paid the shop yet, I do that whenever I take it away, but they just installed the brake lines and the driver side wheel cylinder.

[fudge]

so I just called the shop and told them I did not bench bleed the master cylinder and I just slapped it on there and they said that is not the problem because they took it off adjusted it and they said, "it just wont hold". I don't know what that means but they said everything is pointing towards the master cylinder so I'm just going to buy one for $40 off rock auto. no biggie I just hope it all works. Thanks for your response I'm not concerned about the master cylinder you sent me I just want my car back on the road!!!

[fudge]

Just before I order another MC I have seen you can swap to a MC from an aspire, ecort GT, and protege as an upgrade. Since I am about to order a new MC, does anyone have a suggestion for MC as an upgrade?

Also my hand brake works but it isn't really that strong. I drove there without any brakes, kept my hazard lights on and drove slow in second, never had to use the hand brake. It was actually kind of fun lol. The shop is only a few miles from home so if I have to, I can drive it home.

[1990new]

Everything is connected yes. I installed the master cylinder and brake booster but I did not bench bleed it and I am thinking this may be the problem. I think the shop said they tried to bleed the brakes or they couldnt because of the master cylinder which I thought was weird because it should all be working. I am thinking the problem is that I did not bench bleed the master cylinder before hand. I have not paid the shop yet, I do that whenever I take it away, but they just installed the brake lines and the driver side wheel cylinder.

So you installed the master and booster before you took it to the shop and you did not bench bleed the master cylinder... It is still possible to bleed the brakes even if you did not do a bench bleed of the master cylinder. Here is a video that explains, better than I can here,a good way to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=oi4BnNA3Ep4

You will need a long vinyl hose (diameter of which fits snugly over the bleeder valves) and a large container of brake fluid (Walmarts brand is cheap). If you brakes don't pump up after you do this, you master cylinder is probably not good. You will still need to bleed all the air out of the lines at all four locations to get all the air and sponginess out of the lines.
Personally I would open up all the lines at the all the wheels and pump new fluid through the lines (maybe buy a couple large bottles of brake fluid). Use hoses on the nipples and put them in a bottle to catch the fluid. Make sure everything is clean around the reservoir so you don't pump any trash into the lines.
I use a vacuum pump bleeder when I bleed mine. You can get one a HarborFreight for about $25. There are youtube videos that explain how to use it.