Brave, our 323s were all EFI, FYI.
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New owner intro; engine bucking issues (possibly ignition or vacuum?)
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90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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Thanks to all for your continued replies. I do appreciate it.
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Just got back from Pep Boys. I purchased some PCV breather filter gauze (Purolator B23167). I'll cut it to size, if/as necessary, and install it in the air filter housing, where the original gauze was missing. The distributor cap and rotor are due late this week or early next week. I'm keeping in mind the idea to block some of the radiator with cardboard, also.
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Immediately after bringing the car home, I went through it to familiarize myself. I discovered unused connectors in the tail light wiring, behind the access panels. There's one on each side, per the photo. What was the intent of these connectors? Are they a free source of switched power? I'd like to install a 12 volt power port in the rear, and the connectors seem tailor-made for such a job.
Rear plug.jpg
Also: does the base L have factory wiring [hidden] in place to accept rear speakers and/or the OEM cargo area light?
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Welcome to the forum and congratulation on that luck Festiva find. Like the way you already added the information about you Festiva in your signature. Looks like you did some research on the forum already to find information about Festivas.
I have an 89 L automatic with EFI and it is wired for rear speakers on both sides and also is wired for a cargo light on the right side.
I have never owned an 88 carb L so I can't speak for that. I would not advise trying to use existing wire to the rear for a 12V outlet because the wire size and potential amp pull could easily cause melted wire insulation resulting in a short fairly quickly.
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Originally posted by TominMO View PostBrave, our 323s were all EFI, FYI.
Australia or Canada then.
I'll ask around for an 88.
shin,
you may want to use the 15A rear wiper circuit if you don't have a wiper in the back.
Jump the wire behind the switch cover in the dash, and then release the terminal from the connector in the back, roll it up and protect it, just in case you want to add a wiper motor in the future. New Yazaki terminals are available from easternbeaver.com
Or, contact me if you only want one or two.
I agree with 1990. If it was me, I would add a new fused circuit with larger gauge wire.Last edited by bravekozak; 12-26-2016, 10:00 PM.
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bk - The 88 L has 4 switch blank plates on the dash, two on either side. Which one would have the wiper switch wiring immediately behind it?
My original workaround, based on the sound advice to create a dedicated circuit with appropriate gauge wiring, would be via the use of an add-a-circuit fuse, or something similar.
Regular ATO ATC APR Fuse Tap (FuseTap). Create a new circuit for your new accessory! Regular ATO ATC APR Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap. - Use with Regular ATO ATC APR fuses up to 30 AMP each slot! 1 x Regular ATO/ATC/APR Fuse - Fuse Tap.
In the interim, I've been gathering a few NOS parts to dress up the car a bit come Spring: plastic grille (with NOS dust at no add'l. charge) and mud guards.
NOS grille.jpgNOS mudguards.jpg
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Originally posted by Shin Hayata View Postbk - The 88 L has 4 switch blank plates on the dash, two on either side. Which one would have the wiper switch wiring immediately behind it?90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand
Disaster preparedness
Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info
Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!
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The so-called bucking has just been minimized through the addition of a measured dose of Iso-HEET (red bottle) and topping off the tank with 4 gallons of ethanol-free 87 octane. This result reconciles with my theory that perhaps I got a bad tank of E10, and/or the car is just sensitive to ethanol-derived moisture during cold weather. Or perhaps a nagging issue with the vacuum remains. I'll do a more precise examination after my factory troubleshooting manual arrives.
I'm still in the discovery process, but it's enjoyable enough. It's nice to work on a car that seems no more complex than my air-cooled dual sport motorcycle.
Trail 1.jpg
Q: There's an access panel under the rear passenger seat, which I presume is secured to the top of the fuel tank. Is there a fuel pickup filter ("sock") under there, or just the sending unit? Carbureted car here; fuel pump is in engine bay.
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Lower control arms are on the To Do list. Rock Auto has "MOOG RK9477 {#E8BZ3078A} Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint; R-Series; Complete Arm w/Ball Joint" for $19.54 each.
I presume the driver and passenger side control arms are the same, and I would simply order two of the linked item?
A similar product on Amazon illustrates two blue bushings(?) not evident in the Rock Auto listing.
Thanks for your patience with the continued rookie questions.Last edited by Shin Hayata; 12-28-2016, 09:16 PM.
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The ISO-heet is nothing more than isopropyl alcohol. It absorbs moisture in the fuel making it more readily able to evaporate. E10 is nothing more than grain derived alcohol in your fuel. Hate to say it but you've nearly gone apples for apples in your tank.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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