Air conditioning recharge -- labor cost inquiry

[Shin Hayata]

I searched for but didn't find a thread on this subject.

The factory A/C system on my 88L requires recharging. All components appear to function correctly, but the air isn't at all cold. I'm presently waiting for a quote from a local specialist. I've requested the following:

-Check system for leaks
-Evacuate any residual R12
-Install new High and Low side adapter fittings
-Replace A/C receiver drier/accumulator (mandatory when retrofitting a vehicle)
-Recharge with R134a freon
-Test for function

I mentioned in my quote request that I'll purchase and provide the receiver drier/accumulator from Rock Auto, via this link.

It seems that I'd just have to match the Rock Auto part with the design (appearance) of the drier/accumulator presently in the car. Any additional advice here is welcome.

What's a reasonable cost for the requested service? What about repair costs for any detected leaks? Just want ballpark figures so that I can cross-shop other A/C specialists if/when necessary.

-SH

[FestYboy]

At this point with a 29yo system, I would assume ALL of the rubber o-ring seals are deteriorated. The should be replaced with the green rings found in newer systems.

The real cost comes with finding someone who can properly evacuate and store the r-12. Few people have the dedicated equipment for that. Leak detection is done 2 ways: vacuum and pressure. After passing the vac test for 10 min, I like to hit the system with shop air to simulate a static charge (usually about 70psi), then hit the joints with soapy water. If all is good, then pull it back down for 30 min and charge normally.

[F3BZ]

it will be hard to estimate without at least 1st having the system vac'ed and leak tested under pressure. if no leakage is detected then the cost should be relatively for 2+ cans of 134a. i used to do this as a side to my HVAC work but the astronomical rise of R12 and need for recovery equipment wasn't worth it anymore for a side gig. plus more than a few people were never happy with the reduced capacity of R134 swimming in an R12 pool. i would research some alternative drop-in blends that mimic the heat absorption properties of R12 but don't give seagulls a case of brown squirt if lost to the atmosphere.
if the system was never tampered with most likely any leakage will be from the rubber sections of hoses or the comp shaft seal. 1 or even 2 hoses needing replaced won't cost much to have fabbed. the only real money biters in the system are the condenser which should be tight if not damaged and comp which can usually be repaired vs replaced.

[zoe60]

It is nearly impossible to find anyone who still has equipment for R12. If you go to the trouble of repairing the system you should try to find a NOS compressor and replace that too. That's where my main leak was. I replaced the compressor, the accumulator drier. all O rings, and the expansion valve. Put a vacuum on it and it held for two days. Then I re filled it with under the table unobtanium R 12. It has worked absolutely perfectly for two years now. Good luck with whatever you decide on doing!

[Shin Hayata]

Thanks for the comments.

This is the first time I've had to deal with the resurrection of a prior generation A/C system. I'm not sure how much I want to spend, but your input has provided the necessary clarity here.

The Festiva is actually intended for use during Autumn/Winter/Spring. I use the motorcycles to the extent possible for errands and such during the Summer (thank goodness for top cases, etc.) Depending on the repair cost estimate for the Festiva's A/C system, I may end up just driving my Ridgeline, and/or rolling down the windows on the little Ford, on hot days.

[1990new]

For a system that old that is not cooling and has never been converted from R12, I would be willing to bet that your R12 has already leaked out. The first thing I would do is order a couple of R134a adapters on ebay for less than $10 and then get a couple of cans of R134a from Walmart for about $10. I know the two are not compatible and in the end the system will die, but in the meantime, if the compressor is still working and the expansion valve is not completely blocked, you might get a years worth of cooling out of it.
You will come out way ahead in the long run if you buy yourself a manifold gauge set and a vacuum pump.
The AC in my 1990 lasted two summers after I topped it off with 134a. Since that time I have replaced the expansion valve, accumulator/dryer and the compressor after cleaning out all the components and then did a recharge with R134a.

[bravekozak]

I bought a big tank of R-12 cheap. I prefer brain freeze in the summer.
Can't touch that! Besides, the sticker on the left side of the hood latch says R-12.

[Shin Hayata]

Mm. R12 refrigerant is still available on a per-can basis, via ebay, but it's expensive for what it is and the age of the cans is indeterminate.

The combined vacuum pump and gauge kits on Amazon are tempting, if only because I can set myself up for a DIY job.

I don't know. The money that I could spend to chase the A/C system charge on the Festiva could instead be redirected to summer ride & camp tours. That's something which I try to do every year (and which requires a dedicated budget). Rolling down the windows on the Ford will always be free.

We'll see what sort of quote the specialist shop provides, and go from there.

------------------------------------------

Camping at a Provincial Park in Canadaland. It rained hard that night, but I slept like a baby in a warm and dry tent. Quality camping gear isn't inexpensive and it does require periodic renewal; thus my need to choose between the Festiva and new equipment when needed.

Campsite 51.jpg

[bravekozak]

Change all of the O-rings yourself and have them test it. The toughest one to get at is inside the evaporator core. You have to remove it to get at it. It's a good idea to take it out and clean it. It is probably clogged with twenty years of dirt and debris. A good thread to also read is "cabin air filter".

[Meepersly]

I have an 88 LX with ac I just bought one of those r134 recharge bottles and charged it up. Worked magnificently. Later on when I did my engine swap I removed my ac worked great up until I removed it. I miss it sometimes.

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[Shin Hayata]

I have an 88 LX with ac I just bought one of those r134 recharge bottles and charged it up. Worked magnificently. Later on when I did my engine swap I removed my ac worked great up until I removed it. I miss it sometimes.

Sent from my Z963VL using Tapatalk

Thanks for the comment.

Certainly, I'm tempted to take the same shortcut. However, there's a significant volume of online warnings regarding the degree of incompatibility between R12 and R134a. Further, the specialist with whom I've been e-corresponding regarding a labor quote requires the replacement of the A/C receiver drier/accumulator as a condition of his shop performing the service. So I'm doubly on guard against putting the 29 year old components at risk here.

I'd rather pay the piper, or roll down the windows, in lieu of taking a chance with the cheap-and-cheerful recharge methodology. I'm glad it worked for you; at the moment, I may just put this one off for a while.

[Meepersly]

Good on you. Going the proper route is way better then taking the shortcut I did. I only did it because I only wanted it to work while I could still use said system. I didn't plan on keeping it due to how I'm willing to sacrifice comfort for a much more open engine bay.

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[bravekozak]

I just wanted to see what was in the old drier. A bag containing balls of molecular sieve.