check engine light

[rmp2711]

Did a search but didn't find my exact problem. I going at 65 or 70 when cel came on. Car felt like it had a miss, was stumbling, like is was running on 3 cylinders. Did this for about a mile or 2. Then the cel went out and the car ran fine, no miss. It's a 90 5 speed. I usually do a tune up every 2 years but haven't did one since May of 2014. Think maybe that could be the problem?

[bravekozak]

Use double quotes in the search box.
That way, it will look for the expression with all three words together, rather than seperately.

Like this: "check engine light"

[rmp2711]

Did that. Most of them said light came on but engine still ran fine. Mine started stumbling and had a miss, then ran fine when the light went out.

[Shin Hayata]

I going at 65 or 70 when cel came on. Car felt like it had a miss, was stumbling, like is was running on 3 cylinders. Did this for about a mile or 2. Then the cel went out and the car ran fine, no miss.

I usually do a tune up every 2 years but haven't did one since May of 2014. Think maybe that could be the problem?

The same issue occurred with a VW Golf that I used to own. Pulled the CEL code, which suggested the #3 plug wire. Replaced wire and all was well.

[bravekozak]

Found this while searching for "CEL codes".

[w4rkry]

This sounds exactly like mine when my ECT sensor was going out.

Check the code for the CEL, it will tell you.

[monkeykiller1996]

my 89 use to do the same thing when it was raining turns out my air filter was getting soaked with water and flooding it out but you have a 90 so you have fuel injection

[rmp2711]

thanks for the info. can the code be found even if the cel is not light?

[Timothy]

Yes there is a memory. Here is a video I made on how to check. When I checked it my CEL light was off. I have a similar problem to yours.

[Timothy]

Also I have been doing a lot of reading on this problem including scouring the manual for answers. Here are some things to check. Check spark plugs and wires. Also check the gap on the plugs. They should be between .38-.44. If the gaps are too big the spark could jump causing misfires under high load situations since the spark could jump to an unwanted area. Also this puts undue stress on your coil. Also the gaps on the plugs change over time due to wear and tear on the electrode. The second thing to check extensively is to check for air leaks in your intake. Spray starter fluid at all the air intake joints and vacuum hoses. If the idle speeds up you have found your problem. Check the air filter. It could be clogged and when not letting the proper air flow through under high demand times. Check fuel pressure. Speck is 38-44 psi. If it's under that when the car is under load the pump might not be delivering the proper amount of fuel. Also the vane air flow meter could be on the fritz. Mine was so bad especially going up a hill it shut my whole car down. Start with the easy and cheap stuff like tracking down air leaks and plugs and wires. It's good maintenance and you probably need it anyway. One last thing your fuel filter could be clogged interrupting fuel to the injectors. Also you can put a very long screwdriver at the base of all of your injections and the other end straight to your ear. and listen for the working properly. There should be a distinct and sharp clicking noise on each injuctor. If one sounds mushy it might be clogged or or malfunctioning.

[sc72]

Timothy, is the fuel pressure spec of 38/44 at idle or at a certain RPM.

[Timothy]

Manual says:

Fuel pump test connector jumped (engine not running) 38-44
Vacuum sensing hose attached (at idle) 30 to 38 psi
Vacuum sensing hose detached (at idle) 36 to 44 psi

The vacuum sensing hose it is talking about is the one attached to the fuel pressure regulator. If you pull it out pressure should spike.