Missing timing marks

[FestYboy]

Now this engine is doing the same things that the old engine was doing, specifically the idle is garbage and it bogs down when you open the throttle, but surges when it's closed. The only thing that came with the new engine was the block and headband so I reused most of the old engine stuff. Any ideas?

What is the condition of the rubber intake tube? I'll assume you reused the Festiva intake manifold as is required.

[krock26]

I actually found a rubber intake in pristine condition at a junkyard so I know that there are not leaks there. I used propane to track down leaks and I found one, but I patched it so it's not leaking anymore. It's almost like the timing is off but I made sure the belt was on exactly right and playing with the distributor doesn't fix it. I'm starting to suspect the ECM but I just don't know.

[FestYboy]

Compression test...

[krock26]

1: 150 psi
2: 150 psi
3: 130 psi
4: 130 psi
So I guess I have a head gasket leak. But I don't think that it's this because it is doing the same exact thing as the engine I replaced, which had perfect compression.

[mikemounlio]

Does the pulley have a rubber core to it? Maybe its flexing when you get on it and changes the timing. Then when you let out does it again. IDK if thats a thing or not tho. Just a thought.

[FestYboy]

Fuel pressure? If the mechanical timing is good and those compression numbers are better than my girls aspire by a long shot, it has to be fuel. You only need 4 things to run: fuel, air, spark and compression.

[krock26]

I tried bypassing the fuel pump relay but it still does the same thing. The VAF was taken out of a running car and I've replaced the coolant temp sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, coil, cap and rotor, wires and plugs and TPS. I tried buying a new computer but it was a bad replacement and failed after a hundred miles so I'm back on the original one. I messed with the idle screws before I found out that that was a big nono, but that shouldn't make the car big down when I'm at WOT. I don't know what it could be besides the computer, distributor, ignition control module or O2 sensor. I'd rather not throw all those parts at it if I can figure out exactly what it is.

[FestYboy]

Ok, let's back up, and list all the issues.
Earlier I'm the thread you mentioned crappy idle, a bog at tip in, and surging once the throttle is closed. Now there is also bogging at WOT. At what RPM do these issues present themselves? (Besides the crappy idle). Are we absolutely positive the cam isn't off a tooth? Where is the dizzy in relation to it's adjustment slot now? Is the engine grounded well? Have you done a spark leak test?

[krock26]

Here's a video I made of what it does, sorry for the bad quality: https://youtu.be/AziZT0uzWZU
Once it gets above 2000 rpm it has a normal power and but under that it's all sorts of messed up. I double checked that the timing marks line up on both ends of the belt. The ground wire on the passenger side looked iffy, I can try making a new one to see if it does anything. The distributor is about in the middle of its slot and I haven't done a spark leak test.

[dalebwilson]

Which idle screws did you mess with? What procedure did you use to adjust the new TPS?


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[krock26]

I messed with both of them. When I put in the TPS I just popped open the cover to make sure it was closed when the throttle was and open when the throttle was.

[dalebwilson]

Ok. That is not the correct procedure to set the TPS. Follow the procedure in the Haynes manual or whatever manual you have. The procedure requires the use of a feeler gauge and OHM meter to accurately set the TPS. If you did tamper with the dash pot screw on the passenger side of the throttle body, that will certainly affect the TPS adjustment.


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[FestYboy]

I'll look for my post on how to set it...

Found it: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...tment%2C+plate

Post #10

[krock26]

Okay, I adjusted the TPS like Festyboy described but it didn't change anything. I guess I'm just going to do the head gasket first and go from there.

[FestYboy]

When you pull the head, carefully inspect the valves and seats for burn through.