My guess is it's a bad ignigtion switch...

[bugbor]

but maybe somebody here has run into this before. Last time I drove my '90 Festy (about 2 weeks ago) it started and ran just fine. Went to fire it up Friday and got no idiots lights 'til I turned the key towards the "start" position. Engine turned right over, and seemed to run momentarily, as I backed off the key, but died as soon as the key returned to the "on/run" spot, with still no idiot lights. Did this several times, so I have to assume that there're contacts in the switch that've worn to the point that they aren't aligned any more to keep the circuit closed. Of course, I'm really expecting some Festiva magician here to tell me the secret to fixin' this is to use a BFH to heavily tap the muffler bearings while the car's facing due North during a full moon, or replace the radiator with an original from a '64 VW Beetle. If neither of these cures will work, I guess it means takin' apart the cover on the steering column and sprayin' with some contact cleaner. Any other suggestions?

[WmWatt]

Try spraying WD-40 or contact cleaner into the keyhole and work it in by pushing the key in and out. There is information on this site about taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts. For that info try a search on "ignition switch". Good luck.

[bugbor]

Thanks you, sir. I know about that post, but I was hopin' that I could keep from havin' to pull the switch.
As far as disassembling the switch itself, the ol' eyeballs and fine motor skills aren't conducive to that kind of stuff these days. Takin' apart switches and guns and stuff ain't as easy when you can't find out where all the little parts and springs went flyin' when you drop 'em. Actually, the takin' apart ain't so much the problem 'cause you can always find a bigger hammer, it's the gettin' back together again when ya can't find every little part that it becomes a challenge.

[FestYboy]

Ummm, how does spraying the barrel affect the switch? Last I checked, the switch is on the outside of the tumbler assembly.

[bugbor]

Ummm, how does spraying the barrel affect the switch? Last I checked, the switch is on the outside of the tumbler assembly.

Maybe he has access to the high-pressure, gallon-sized can of WD-40? Or tip the car on its side so the stuff runs all the way down into every little crevice? :^)

[1990new]

Sometimes the solder get's hot enough to melt in there when there's a short.
Check to see if your meter fuse is still ok too.
If it turns out that you need a new ignition switch harness, I have a good one
that I'll let you have for $35 shipped.

[bugbor]

Sometimes the solder get's hot enough to melt in there when there's a short.
Check to see if your meter fuse is still ok too.
If it turns out that you need a new ignition switch harness, I have a good one
that I'll let you have for $35 shipped.

Thanks. As far as I know, it hasn't gotten hot. Ran fine a couple of weeks ago. Might have time to get into it this week. Meantime, I have my '89 Festy I can drive, the '87 RangerSTX and my 1100 Virago so I can get to work.
ETA: Idiot lights don't show when the switch is in "on/run" position, they just come on when I turn it to start. Engine catches but dies on releasing pressure and letting key go back to "on" again. Might go out this evening and hit it with some WD-40 and/or contact cleaner, then use PB Blaster tomorrow.

[WmWatt]

"Ummm, how does spraying the barrel affect the switch? Last I checked, the switch is on the outside of the tumbler assembly."
Dunno but spraying into the keyhole cures occassional wiper switch problems for me and it's not connected at all so why not ignition switch?

[FestYboy]

^ lol!

[bugbor]

"Ummm, how does spraying the barrel affect the switch? Last I checked, the switch is on the outside of the tumbler assembly."
Dunno but spraying into the keyhole cures occassional wiper switch problems for me and it's not connected at all so why not ignition switch?

So it's kinda like my idea of the BFH on the muffler bearings? Not connected so it can't hurt. Guess I'll try sprayin' from the other side where the wiper stalk is.

[TominMO]

but maybe somebody here has run into this before. Last time I drove my '90 Festy (about 2 weeks ago) it started and ran just fine. Went to fire it up Friday and got no idiots lights 'til I turned the key towards the "start" position. Engine turned right over, and seemed to run momentarily, as I backed off the key, but died as soon as the key returned to the "on/run" spot, with still no idiot lights. Did this several times, so I have to assume that there're contacts in the switch that've worn to the point that they aren't aligned any more to keep the circuit closed. Of course, I'm really expecting some Festiva magician here to tell me the secret to fixin' this is to use a BFH to heavily tap the muffler bearings while the car's facing due North during a full moon, or replace the radiator with an original from a '64 VW Beetle. If neither of these cures will work, I guess it means takin' apart the cover on the steering column and sprayin' with some contact cleaner. Any other suggestions?

The stock Festiva mufflers now available are using cheap Chinese bearings, so it is not advisable to "heavily tap" them with a BFH.

Rock Auto does not even list the radiator for the '64 Beetles any longer. This is probably why we see so few of them on the roads any more. :-(

Anyway, these are not your problems. Most likely, excess gravity has shifted your ignition switch counter-clockwise, for the idiot lights to come on in the Start position. The proper cure is to drive it on the hwy as fast as possible, then slam on the brakes, to shift the switch back to a more clockwise orientation. It may take several attempts.

"Why no officer, I was just trying to....."

[bugbor]

Guess I'll have to go along with the excess gravity theory. That'd explain why I'm bulgin' out at and below the waist line, resemblin' the shape of the Earth. I like pears, so pear shaped must be good.
Didn't do anything with the car yesterday afternoon so it's about time for me to go out there and spray liberal applications of several aerosols into the atmosphere. Gotta do my part to increase globull warmening, you know.

[TominMO]

Guess I'll have to go along with the excess gravity theory. That'd explain why I'm bulgin' out at and below the waist line, resemblin' the shape of the Earth. I like pears, so pear shaped must be good.
Didn't do anything with the car yesterday afternoon so it's about time for me to go out there and spray liberal applications of several aerosols into the atmosphere. Gotta do my part to increase globull warmening, you know.

Many people seem to be living in excess-gravity zones. Apparently, fast-food places are usually built in those zones. And the USA is especially prone to having excess gravity.

[bugbor]

Okay, gang, here's what happened today. Decided that I might be able to get it to stay running by starting the engine and releasing the switch partway. Worked if I didn't let it return all the way to "on", which wasn't always easy. Sprayed contact cleaner into the keyhole and through a gap between the plastic and the switch assembly. Worked the key several times, then hit the switch with PB Blaster. When I turned the key on again, I noticed a flicker of idiot lights just before the "on" position but they went away 'til I got almost to "start" when they showed up again. Tried cycling the key back and forth from "lock" to "on" to "start" several times. Fired up the engine and brought the key almost all the way to "on" and held it there while engine stayed running. Found key would stay in place just slightly past "on" or I could bring up the revs and jump past "on" to a spot between there and "lock" and keep it going. More PB Blaster in the switch, cycle the key a bit more, and she would now keep running even in the "on" position. Cycled everything several more times, took it for about a 5 mile run and everything seems to be fine.
Oh, yeah, even when I couldn't get lights at first, when the key went to "on" the cooling fan started up. No idea what was wrong, other than maybe lots of dirt and gunk where it shouldn't have been, but seems to be okay now.
Thanks for the ideas and encouragement, and sorry to hear that muffler bearings are now cheap Chinese crap instead of the good ol' fashioned teflon-coated ones. Will also look out for excess gravity zones in the future.

ETA: In spite of the title in the original post, I really do know how to spell "ignition", honest I do.

[WmWatt]

^^lol! You mght want to carry that spray can in the car in case the problem reappears.