Rear Brake Problem

[denguy]

Had a rubbing sound coming from the rear wheels. It took a while to find the problem, it turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. My 92 just posted 200k miles. I decided to replace the drums, shoes, bearings, seals and hardware stuff while I was at it. All went well until I tried to put the new drums on over the new stuff. I can't get them over the new shoes. I tried re-setting the adjuster but am not sure if I did it right, or at all. Any tips on doing this one?

[TominMO]

Yeah, re-set the adjuster to minimum expansion. You may have to play with slightly moving the shoes up and down, so that they form a perfect circle to fit the drum on.

[denguy]

How do you re-set the adjuster?

[1990new]

How do you re-set the adjuster?

About 12 minutes into this video you will see how to adjust the cam so it is totally released.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuPTfkmsLCM

[FestYboy]

I guess my post didn't... post?

Anywho, the adjuster cam rotates away from the backing plate. You may find that you have to squeeze the wheel cylinder as well to get that last bit of compression.

[Icedawg]

I had a similar problem a few years ago. I think the newer parts are not quite in spec. I did all the adjustments suggested, but it was still a problem. Unfortunately I had to solve it by leaving the nut on the wheel bearing just a bit loose for a few days of running, and then tightening the nut up a bit more. By then the pads had worn just enough, and perhaps jostled around a bit into a better position. I was not keen on this solution, but it was the only one that worked after all the adjustments were fiddled with as much as they could be.
You should also check if the shoes are in the right way, if they are flipped top to bottom or front to back they take up more space inside the drum.

[ryanprins13]

I had an issue years ago. Replaced just the cylinder and not shoes or drums iirc. Very worn drums and worn pads. Adjusted the adjuster properly. Could not get the drum on. Ended up hammering it on but after 2 miles the drum was super hot. Took out new cylinder and put old one back in and it was fine. Bought a different brand of wheel cylinder

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[denguy]

I could not get the new drum on over the new shoes no matter what. Finally I ground down the tips of the new shoes, a little bit at a time, until they closed in enough for the drum to clear them. That was easier than boring out the drum. Maybe they were off spec, as someone mentioned. I am going to compare the old drum to the new one, size wise. I wish there was a simple way to stick a picture in here, like just copy it and paste it.
I found out that the adjuster pivoting cam was frozen in place with rust, I freed it up so it could pivot around to the closed position.
At least I got rid of that rubbing sound.

[Icedawg]

sounds like you found a good solution.
virtually all the adjuster pivots are frozen unless the current or PO make a point of freeing them up and coating the pivot in anti seize or something similar. They always need to be checked.

[1990new]

That's a place where just a couple dollars extra for stainless steel would have prevented a lot of future headaches.
Those adjusters sometimes even get locked up down here in the South.

[Eaglefreek]

I had to do the same thing on my last Festiva when I replaced the rear shoes. The new shoes seemed to have too much meat and I sanded them until I got the drum to fit. Chinese quality control.

[denguy]

Just wondering , when you are putting everything back together, how do you preload your bearings?
I had to install my new bearing races into the raceless new drums. I beat the races out of the old drums and used them to drive in the press fitted new races.

[ryanprins13]

Go on timkens site, they had a good outline.
Iirc it was torque to 100ft pounds then loosen off 1/8 or 1/4turn depending on bearing size.

What i now do after i repack them is tighten, spin wheel, tighten more, spin wheel... 5 or 6 times till the nut is real tight. Like 70ft pounds. Then install tire, back nut off slowly until i can just barely feel play in the bearing, then tighten a little till theres no play. drive 110km (home and back to work for me) and recheck.

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[ryanprins13]

This was what i copied off timkens site:
timken:
Step 1: Tighten the nut while turning the hub. When there is a slight bind on the bearing, the parts are seated correctly.
Step 2: Back the nut off 1/6 to 1/4 of a turn or sufficiently to allow .001” to .007“ end play.
Note: Failure to back off adjusting nut could cause bearing to run hot and be damaged. Wheel could lock or separate.

Verify end play with a dial indicator. Wheel end play is the free movement of the tire and wheel assembly along the spindle axis.
a) Make sure the brake drum-to-hub fasteners are tightened to the manufacturers’ specifications.
b) Attach the dial indicator with its magnetic base to the hub or brake drum.
c) Adjust the dial indicator so that its plunger or pointer is against the end of the spindle with its line of action approximately parallel to the axis of the spindle.
d) Grasp the wheel assembly at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions. Push the wheel assembly in and out while oscillating it to seat the bearings. Read the bearing end play as the total indicator movement.
NOTE: If end play is not within specification, readjustment is required.

for semi trailers:
torque to 200 lbf•ft (271N•m) While Rotating Wheel
back off One Full Turn
torque to 50 lbf•ft (68 N•m) While Rotating Wheels
back off 1/4 turn
endplay 0.001-0.005

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[jawja jim]

The Haynes manual gives a pretty easy(I did it several times, therefore, easy) step-by-step for the rear bearings, and it's not very complicated.