Sluggish and choking, on going fuel/air issue

[walth]

I made my own post. Feel bad I threadjacked elaphox. My mpg went from 20-30 (big range I know) to 38 this weekend. I hope you find some headway on your festy.


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[walth]

I will run all these questions by my mechanic in the morning, I asked if the injectors had been looked into when they were diagnosing the problem after the first pump replacement. They answered yes and I did not question further, since I admittedly don't know the little components involved in so many of these parts. I will ask that the screens be checked if they weren't already. The o2 sensor has not been replaced, and again I dunno for sure if that was something my mechanic looked into inbetween the first and second pump replacement. I do know that they were working for hours checking the "tune up" things wires, plugs etc. before arriving at the fuel pump again.

Any word? My festy was doing a lot of the things yours was/is.. my b6 ran worse than a b3. I'd pull the injectors and spray both ways with carb cleaner as you quickly actuate the solenoid (injector).

We used a medium size vacuum cap with a tiny hole for the carb cleaner straw hose to go through.


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[walth]

Same circuit, or one on each?

1&3 last night, changed #4 a month ago. Both circuits have solid voltage


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[FestYboy]

Same circuit, or one on each?

[walth]

Never had a problem with their centech unit that I didn't cause. I'm talking about the 30 dollar one, not the freebie.

Waltham, those compression numbers are low... Very low. A good healthy engine should be 180+ warm. 150 is a minimum for anything to be considered running ok. That in mind, Skippy is running ok with #3 at only 60 psi. Down on power, but nothing like what you describe. You might want to do a leak down test...

It was two weak injectors Arty...


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[FestYboy]

Never had a problem with their centech unit that I didn't cause. I'm talking about the 30 dollar one, not the freebie.

Waltham, those compression numbers are low... Very low. A good healthy engine should be 180+ warm. 150 is a minimum for anything to be considered running ok. That in mind, Skippy is running ok with #3 at only 60 psi. Down on power, but nothing like what you describe. You might want to do a leak down test...

[walth]

Is hf unit Harbor Freight? I have a nice Fluke meter here but as it's not mine I will not use it so I just bought a $10 volt/ohm meter from Harbor Freight and it's garbage. When you put it on the 200 ohm scale and touch the probes it will read either 1.5 ohms or infinite. I once bought a compression gauge there because unlike mine it had adapters for a 10 mm spark plug hole. I was pretty quick to condemn the old Honda 90 engine until I tried it in one of my vehicles and found it only read 1/2 of what my old American made Sun unit read. I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight tools, particularly diagnostic.

Yeah, harbor freight.. agreed, some things are better left on the shelf. I've never actually paid for one of their cheap units.. always the freebie


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[Rick the Quick]

Sent you three photos via tapattack lemme know if they don't work


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Edit>> yeah it is a big headache for sure. I hooked up a multimeter to my engine coolant temp sensor yesterday and it went from .42 (20kohms) to .45 (20kohms) and then went blank. Don't know if I can trust hf unit haha. Bought expensive 9v last night for my new and better mm and we'll see how that goes.

Is hf unit Harbor Freight? I have a nice Fluke meter here but as it's not mine I will not use it so I just bought a $10 volt/ohm meter from Harbor Freight and it's garbage. When you put it on the 200 ohm scale and touch the probes it will read either 1.5 ohms or infinite. I once bought a compression gauge there because unlike mine it had adapters for a 10 mm spark plug hole. I was pretty quick to condemn the old Honda 90 engine until I tried it in one of my vehicles and found it only read 1/2 of what my old American made Sun unit read. I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight tools, particularly diagnostic.

[walth]

Sluggish and choking, on going fuel/air issue

Hesitant when shifting, misfire during idle and cruising, runs lean. Swapped vaf, disty, pulled and blew out injectors, swapped #4, tried different ecu, checked tps but not sure how we missed this...also cleaned a bunch of grounds, checked fuel pressure and it's good at idle and 1500+, compression is 120-150 warm, all new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, swapped coil, and more. Fairly confident it's tps..it's got at least .023 gap where the pin moves free til it touches the other side. Lmk what you think Arty, thanks

Oh, and I've had a rare but really terrible problem where it wants to die, goes super lean and doesn't want to move but I can feather it up to around 3500 and then it takes off like crazy train. Whether it's tps or not, I'm replacing this one...

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[FestYboy]

I think my issue is with the tps being loose on rotation (in relation to actual throttle position)

Still looking forward to replies from OP


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TPS on a festy is a 3 position switch, so if it's loose, it will only affect when it goes in and out of idle, and in and out of WOT. The in-between position is "run" and that works for 90% of its travel.

Could you explain your issues in a bit more detail?

[walth]

I think my issue is with the tps being loose on rotation (in relation to actual throttle position)

Still looking forward to replies from OP


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[Studebaker]

Change the fuel filter? Check the hose connecting the maf to the intake for cracks or leaks. Make sure the connector is tightly on the maf. Check the fuel pressure when it is acting up. If all else fails replace the dist.

[walth]

Figured out last night I was on the wrong circuit. I was on the IAC.

Im trying to figure out how to monitor any and all sensors. Does anyone have any electrical specs/ranges for sensors on efi festy's?


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[walth]

Sluggish and choking, on going fuel/air issue

Sent you three photos via tapattack lemme know if they don't work


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Edit>> yeah it is a big headache for sure. I hooked up a multimeter to my engine coolant temp sensor yesterday and it went from .42 (20kohms) to .45 (20kohms) and then went blank. Don't know if I can trust hf unit haha. Bought expensive 9v last night for my new and better mm and we'll see how that goes.

[Elaphox]

Any updates? I've been chasing a misfire too.. I remember replacing my ECT when I did my engine swap. No code but warms up fine and then gets lean. Going to be checking ect hopefully today.


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I will know more on Monday. I took the car to a new mechanic this past week and he is convinced it is the MAF. As I understand it he believes there's a short somewhere that is causing the MAF to fail, he's bringing a salvaged MAF in on Monday to help him diagnose the issue. I replaced the water temp sensor and it didn't change anything.
The MAF issue has me tripped up, because I watched another mechanic install two different brand new maf's and both of them made the car run worse, They re-installed the old MAF and the car both times ran better than with the new ones... everyone here suggests injectors and as the chain of events has unfolded to me injectors make sense... but this new mechanic is dead set the issue is not with fuel. I dunno it's a big headache, this whole thing.