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  • Festiva rust

    My floor pans are rusted out all along the edges of the car. Frame is still solid but you can see a line of daylight from the drivers floorboard to the trunk, almost like someone cut it perfectly square.

    I want to weld this up but I'm not a welder nor do I own a welder. Indiana doesn't have safety inspections so I'm safe as far as that goes. So who should I take my festiva to? A welding shop or a body shop? Do they still make any prefabbed panels?
    Last edited by NMA; 04-13-2017, 07:30 PM.

  • #2
    No prefab panels.
    I would just ask around either place would be capable, its just weather they wanna mess with it or not.
    For the price of repair you could probably find a clean shell.

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    • #3
      Some of the rustiest festivas I've ever seen came from Indiana.

      Like william said, it can be cheaper/easier just to take a weekend trip south and pick up a clean non-runner or even running car and start over.
      91GL BP/F3A with boost
      13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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      • #4
        +1 on buying a new shell. I don't think the rust will ever truly be fixed, better to start fresh
        Will Samet

        JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

        JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

        1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

        How to find me:
        Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
        Feel free to PM me anytime!
        Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
        Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET

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        • #5
          I have a rust free shell i could sell u!
          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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          • #6
            Just a tip for anyone who catches the rust before it gets TOO bad and needs to be repaired, there's this stuff called POR15. Just knock off the loose rust (it doesn't even need to be shiny bare metal, but I like to get it close with a wire wheel on a drill), brush it on, and let it dry. Do a couple coats, sand it flush, and double check that's it's still covered, then repaint. Guaranteed rust inhibitor. My boss uses it on his Jaguars. They always rust under the windshield. He replaced the panel 3 times, then used this and it STOPPED the rust. I've been trying to get it to work with a spray gun, but no luck there
            A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

            Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

            Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

            Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

            FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
            Instagram: jaredbear82

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            • #7
              If you cant fix it yourself it will be less than half the cost to just buy another festiva.
              Bodywork is expensive.
              If you want to attempt it yourself then clean it, use rust converter and fibreglass it inside and out. May get another 5-10yrs out of it.
              Picture so we know how bad it is that were talking about? Probly not this bad?

              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
              Last edited by ryanprins13; 04-13-2017, 11:24 PM.

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              • #8
                If it's structural you'd need something strong like welding. If it's not structural there are a number of remedies as suggested. Another is sheet metal and pop rivets. In the old days we slatered asphalt roofing patch(aka tar) over the patches. I spray the under body and inside the panels with canoloa oil each fall. Rust treatments usually contain phosphoric acid which converts iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate or something, called rust converting. It's the acticve ingredeniennt in the naval jelly they put on ships when repainting.
                Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                • #9
                  I'll take some pictures this evening. I'm putting a new cv axle in and getting a front end alligment today.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
                    Just a tip for anyone who catches the rust before it gets TOO bad and needs to be repaired, there's this stuff called POR15. Just knock off the loose rust (it doesn't even need to be shiny bare metal, but I like to get it close with a wire wheel on a drill), brush it on, and let it dry. Do a couple coats, sand it flush, and double check that's it's still covered, then repaint. Guaranteed rust inhibitor. My boss uses it on his Jaguars. They always rust under the windshield. He replaced the panel 3 times, then used this and it STOPPED the rust. I've been trying to get it to work with a spray gun, but no luck there
                    Rustoleum sells spray cans of Rust Reformer. Similar idea to POR-15, which I have also used.
                    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                    Disaster preparedness

                    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                      Rustoleum sells spray cans of Rust Reformer. Similar idea to POR-15, which I have also used.
                      HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO POR15?
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                        HOW DOES IT COMPARE TO POR15?
                        As far as I can tell, it does just as well.
                        90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                        09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                        You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                        Disaster preparedness

                        Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                        Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                        Comment

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