Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

'90L, Front end klunk - NOT CV joints

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • '90L, Front end klunk - NOT CV joints

    A klunk from the right front at irregular times - NOT CV joints. Sounds like a ball joint, but I replaced the lower control arm a couple yrs ago when that really was the problem. Today I made a 10mi trip in the city and it didn't make the noise at all. Other times it makes the noise a lot. Jacking it up the wheel feels tight. Not tie rods either, and the bushings in the lower control arm and sway bar also seem tight. It doesn't wobble on hitting a pothole the way you might expect if the front end was loose, either.

    Could it be the strut? Any good way of telling?

  • #2
    Is it happening around turns? I had a very similar problem that turned out to be a loose LCA bolt. Maybe it's the same for you.
    92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

    Comment


    • #3
      I got that from loose brake rotor bolts. Try grabbing the rotor and shoving to see if it moves, also look for sign of movement along seam between rotor and hub. It's a pain to fix as the knuckle has to be separated from the hub to get at the bolt heads. I also had the loose pinch bolt problem mentioned above. That knocked when going over bumps. Much easier to tighten than the rotors. I guess you tried a pry bar on the sway bar to see if the rubber bushings are worn? If it knocks when starting or stopping or both that could be worn rubber bushings in the motor mounts. I'd drive around targeting, say, speed bumps to see if you can hear anything, also stopping and starting hard and swerving from left to right. Good luck with it.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

      Comment


      • #4
        Check you strut top mount nut. If that nut comes lose which they can! you will get a clunk at times. I have one that came lose after the install of my advanced setup. Took me a good while to figure it out.
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          The clunking sound I had ended up coming from the rack and pinion. Depending on how smooth the roads were determined if I heard the sound or not. I jacked the car up checked all the bolts and couldn't find anything loose including the tie rods, but when I pushed up and down on the fender and could hear the noise. I reached down and grabbed the rack while pushing up and down on the fender and could feel the knock within the rack. Replaced the rack and the clunking was gone.
          93 GL

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by sactnato View Post
            The clunking sound I had ended up coming from the rack and pinion. Depending on how smooth the roads were determined if I heard the sound or not. I jacked the car up checked all the bolts and couldn't find anything loose including the tie rods, but when I pushed up and down on the fender and could hear the noise. I reached down and grabbed the rack while pushing up and down on the fender and could feel the knock within the rack. Replaced the rack and the clunking was gone.
            Great!
            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by sactnato View Post
              The clunking sound I had ended up coming from the rack and pinion. Depending on how smooth the roads were determined if I heard the sound or not. I jacked the car up checked all the bolts and couldn't find anything loose including the tie rods, but when I pushed up and down on the fender and could hear the noise. I reached down and grabbed the rack while pushing up and down on the fender and could feel the knock within the rack. Replaced the rack and the clunking was gone.
              I too have an odd clunk and it started after I replaced the rack with a rebuilt one and haven't been able to trace it down. Hmm, I wonder if I have defective rack?
              Rick
              1993 Ford Festiva
              1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
              1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
              2000 Ford E350

              Comment


              • #8
                Even though the LCA sway bar bushings appear to be tight from the outside, just to be sure, you might want to take off the bolt and washer and make sure the rubber has not separated on the inside.

                A good way to analyze the problem is to jack up the front end, put it in gear and let it run. Turn your steering all the way left and right several time and listen for the noise.
                If you hear none, then the problem is most likely (but not always) to be suspension related.
                Last edited by 1990new; 06-08-2017, 11:23 AM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  To Fudge - Not specifically on turns. Usually not on turns.

                  All others, thanks for suggestions! I'll get back once I've checked them out...
                  Last edited by Pgh5spd; 06-08-2017, 01:42 PM.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X