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  • stripped screw head

    The Aspire rotor had a slight wobble to it because one of the two short screws was loose.
    I stripped the #3 Phillips recess in the screw while attempting to reverse impact it.
    Has anyone else had the same problem?
    I presume the screw is available at an automotive parts counter.
    Should I drill the head out so that I can remove the rotor? Then torch?
    Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 06-16-2017, 08:02 PM.

  • #2
    If you have access to an air hammer, you can walk it out, otherwise drill out the head, remove the remainder and "forget" to put them back in after you clean up the rotor hat and hub surface.
    Trees aren't kind to me...

    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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    • #3
      Don't know how much room you have to work with on the Aspire but I've had good results loosening Phillps screws by grabbing the head in locking pliers (vice grips).
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #4
        Dont your lug bolts keep the rotor tight?
        If you find the screw let me know where, i need 2 and havent found a place that sells them yet.


        Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          M8 X 16 - 1.25

          And I only wanted to change my dust plates.
          Last edited by bravekozak; 06-17-2017, 06:06 AM.

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          • #6
            Have any of you had to line up the hub, rotor, and wheel when putting the wheel on with lug bolts? It's not fun at all.

            Not an issue if you've switched to wheel studs, then you can ditch those screws.

            I just recently had a huge issue with those screws and some new rotors that weren't quite countersunk enough for the screw heads. Death shake at 60 mph. Don't know how I didn't noticed the screw head sticking out of the rotor slightly.
            91GL BP/F3A with boost
            13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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            • #7
              Maybe you can hacksaw a slot across the head to take a blade screwdriver. Or maybe back it out with a prick punch [or chisel] and a hammer.
              Air impacting is pretty aggressive, I think.
              Last edited by denguy; 06-17-2017, 04:03 PM.

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              • #8
                It's my preferred method, as it does everything faster. Then again, I've been doing it this way for years. It takes a little finesse and a good, controllable gun.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                • #9
                  If you have some sort of cut-off wheel you can cut a deeper slot and use a impact screwdriver to loosen it. Try to keep the width of the slot as close to the same as the width of the screwdriver bit so that it's less likely to strip again.
                  '88 L- B6d-Sidedraft Dellorto Carbs-G-Series-Advanced Suspension
                  '89 L B3-5 speed-A/C-Advanced Suspension

                  Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build
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                  How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster
                  How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners

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                  • #10
                    get a wide rubber band...stick that in the slot first then the screwdriver.don't know if it'll work on a screw head that big but works on smaller ones.
                    Last edited by loudrango; 06-17-2017, 09:35 PM.
                    2005 IASCA WORLD CHAMPION

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                    • #11
                      Never tried this but maybe put a glob of JBWeld on the screw head then stick the screwdriver down into it to make the slot tight, remove screwdriver and wait for JBWeld to cure, then try unscrewing. I think that would eliminate option of heating the screw if you want to try that later.
                      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                      • #12
                        Drill it out and use an Easy out.

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                        • #13
                          "Shake-and-Break" tool removes almost any butchered screw. I've used mine successfully on many occasions.

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                          88L black, dailydriver
                          88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
                          4 88/89 disassembled
                          91L green
                          91GL aqua pwrsteer
                          92GL red a/c reardmg
                          3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
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                          • #14
                            You need an impact driver from you local autoparts store. Its a small handheld tool that you put a bit in and hit the end with a hammer. it turns the hammer action into a twisting action with a small internal cam style deal. In a way its the manual version of the tool listed above. It works amazing tho. Any time i do carb work or i see a screw hear start to strip i stop and get it out. It will get anything out as long as you dont 100% strip it before hand. Even then it can still bite. The bits for them are over sized so they tend to sink in a bit.

                            1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                            1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                            1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                            19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                            1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by AlaskaFestivaGuy View Post
                              "Shake-and-Break" tool removes almost any butchered screw. I've used mine successfully on many occasions.

                              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYcxOQjApu8
                              +1
                              This is what works. If the fastener is in sheet metal, turn down the air pressure. As stated, don't try to turn the tool, light rotational pressure.
                              No car too fast !

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