Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

can anyone replace front wheel bearing for me?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • can anyone replace front wheel bearing for me?

    Took the knuckles off the car - the driver's side spins freely but there is the slightest bit of grinding sound. the passenger's side looks like there is new grease in there but doesn't spin very well - it is smooth but as soon as I let pressure off it stops.

    Should I replace the bearings while they are out? I've never done these and don't have the tools - can anyone on here do them for me/ I'd pay parts, shipping both ways, and your time

    i'm in wisconsin if anyone is nearby.

  • #2
    Google up taper bearing failure and inspect both the race and bearing you can just replace the seals and repack your bearing without anything other thank hand tools. No need to replace the bearings and races if the look good. Just freshen up the grease.

    Comment


    • #3
      Oops was thinking rear my bad you do need a friend with a press.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by justinhw View Post
        Took the knuckles off the car - the driver's side spins freely but there is the slightest bit of grinding sound. the passenger's side looks like there is new grease in there but doesn't spin very well - it is smooth but as soon as I let pressure off it stops.

        Should I replace the bearings while they are out? I've never done these and don't have the tools - can anyone on here do them for me/ I'd pay parts, shipping both ways, and your time

        i'm in wisconsin if anyone is nearby.
        What I did was take my knuckle into a local performance auto and they did mine for $60. I had to make sure I told them about the spacer that has to stay with the knuckle when they did them. If you can't find anyone close you could always buy a used knuckle from a junk yard and ask if the bearings are good or not before you buy one. I did this too and you can get some pretty cheap through this site... https://www.partshotlines.com/ some of the sites give you prices and shipping prices. You can get one shipped for around $60. Good luck.

        Comment


        • #5
          One option is to get a cheap press from Harbor Frieght and do them your self. With a coupon or on sale a 12 ton cost me 99.00.
          Jerry
          Team Lightning



          Owner of Team Lightning
          90 L "Peewee" B6D. Bought new May 16,1990
          92 L Thunder BP G5M-R Turbo B6T electronics. Jan 2016 FOTM winner SOLD
          93 L Lightning. BP



          Not a user of drugs or alcohol, Just addicted to Festiva's

          Comment


          • #6
            You can do the job with hand tools and no press. There's a write up somewhere around here, and I'm pretty sure my name is attached to it.

            Need a vice, large hammer, cold chisel, 24mm socket, an extension you don't mind beating on, a piece of 2x4 or the like, and if you're feeling spendy, a race driver set (highly recommended but not absolutely necessary).
            Trees aren't kind to me...

            currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
            94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

            Comment


            • #7
              Here are some photos of my project rebuilding a pair of rusty junk yard wheels. I did it this way so I could have the use of the car while figuring out how to replace bearings. I only bought a large socket for the axle nuts. My press was a piece of 2" plastic pipe. I made a handy knuckle holder out of scrap plywood. And borrowed a 3-prong puller for free from a parts store (tool loaner program) to get the knuckle off the hub. Other people have used a slap hammer (from Harbour Freight in the USA) to separate the knuckle and hub or just hammered on the brake rotors if they were repalcing those too. A couple of tips if you choose to do it yourself. 1. The wheels won't turn freely after they are put back together with the new bearings. The car has to be driven a few feet, say the length of the driveway, to seat the new bearings. 2. Be sure to tighten the bolts on the brake rotors if you take them off because I didn't and had to take the wheels off the car and separate the kuckles again to get at the rotor bolts and tighten when they came loose and it took me and a mechanic some time to discover the source of the noise. As Festy wrote, there is lot of info on this taks here in the forum.

              Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!
              Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks for the info everyone - when you say the wheels won't turn freely with new bearings - does this improve with time?

                One of the bearings has new grease and is hard to turn - I was suspecting that the bearings had been replaced but wasn't sure because of the drag - i thought it would decrease my mileage or something - but if it loosens up i may just replace one side and keep this other one?

                Comment


                • #9
                  ^ Just until the wheel bears the weight of the car so the bearings get lined up and start turning freely.
                  People usually advise replacing both sides, but I think that can mean a week or three of each other.
                  Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Be careful, it's possible the preload spacer is wrong for that bearing that's stiff.
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      There is a member here by the name of "gauge_half_inch" that will completely rebuild knuckles for you, right down to blasting and powder coating. Uses good name brand bearings and I believe sets preload. I think his price is in the $150-200 range. Worth it to me as you should never have to mess with them again afterward.
                      91GL BP/F3A with boost
                      13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by justinhw View Post
                        thanks for the info everyone - when you say the wheels won't turn freely with new bearings - does this improve with time?

                        One of the bearings has new grease and is hard to turn - I was suspecting that the bearings had been replaced but wasn't sure because of the drag - i thought it would decrease my mileage or something - but if it loosens up i may just replace one side and keep this other one?
                        Both of mine spun freely after a rebuild, just did the driver's side. Like mentioned you put the spacer back? The only thing I'm having is the new rebuilt hub is hot as all get out. Guessing that's typical till things loosen up.
                        91 rusty Festiva 260k

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No, that's not good. The preload is too tight on that bearing (or your pads are dragging).
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            ^ This is really important, the spacer is matched to the knuckle and must be correct!
                            We only set racecar bearings to zero preload, road cars to .001" clearance.
                            If it is getting more than luke warm (no braking) then something is wrong and it won't last.
                            No car too fast !

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                              You can do the job with hand tools and no press. There's a write up somewhere around here, and I'm pretty sure my name is attached to it.

                              Need a vice, large hammer, cold chisel, 24mm socket, an extension you don't mind beating on, a piece of 2x4 or the like, and if you're feeling spendy, a race driver set (highly recommended but not absolutely necessary).
                              The Link to your write up.
                              http://festivacentral.blogspot.com/2...acement_7.html
                              "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
                              sigpic
                              "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

                              "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
                              "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
                              "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
                              "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

                              "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
                              https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X