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Pull the motor and trannsmission?

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  • Pull the motor and trannsmission?

    I have been on the forums for a while looking and reading up on clutch replacment. So here is the question should I just pull the motor and tranny at the same time? Then I can redo the clutch and clean everything up at one time? I got new Axles from another member here. Is there a write up or a how to pull the motor and tranny at the same time? If so can you please share the link. Thanks guys for the help. It's a 1993 festiva l 5 speed

  • #2
    I find it easier to do it that way, because it's much easier to line up the engine and transmission while they are out of the car.
    Last edited by Eaglefreek; 09-23-2017, 07:32 PM.
    Rick
    1993 Ford Festiva
    1986 AMC Eagle Wagon 4.2L/4.0L head, AW4,NP242, Chrysler 8.25" rear. SOLD
    1981 AMC Eagle Wagon-As Seen on TV Lost In Transmission
    2000 Ford E350

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    • #3
      Seems a bit excessive for a 2 hour job. Drop the crossmember, let the engine lean against the right member, and swap the clutch. Only thing to watch for is the flex on the upper rad hose.
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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      • #4
        My I ssue is I can't get the axles out. I have been trying for over a week. I have a new set coming from other member. I was thinking of just cutting them out. How dose that sound? The. I can leave the one end in the transmission so the spider gears don't get messed up.
        Last edited by Outcast13; 09-24-2017, 07:05 AM.

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        • #5
          I just changed my passenger side one out with a pry bar and it doesn't mess with any spider gears just going to loose trans fluid is all .
          Last edited by Green Bean; 09-24-2017, 07:30 AM.

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          • #6
            The driver side is the pain in butt.

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            • #7
              If the axels arnt bad and you just need it out of your way slide down the inner boot and pull the ring clip from the inside lip of the cup if it's got one not all do.
              Then just slide the axel out leaving the cup in the transmission. I generally don't have any problems pulling the axels just get them out of the hub and hold them as stright as possible and pull out on the axel using it's self as a slide hammer do this lightly whIle rotating the axel increase your blows slowly, 90% of they time they pop right out for me if there oem. I've had some fight me and when I finally got them out they where aftermarket with the incorrect retainer clip that will get hung up in the diff.

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              • #8
                Top clip is oem bottom is aftermarket as you can see the one on the bottom would stick out much further in those 2 spots.
                I always check the clips before installing the axels and swap to the eo style so they can be easily removed later.

                Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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