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How to Deal With Rust?

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  • How to Deal With Rust?

    Trying to send my Festy to the paint shop. I want to fix the rust myself to save cost. All the panels look clean, but I'm finding rust in the seams in various places where the seam sealer is failing.
    image.jpg
    Advice?
    A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

    Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

    FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
    Instagram: jaredbear82

  • #2
    Wire wheel or sand blast it, epoxy primer and then new seam sealer.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by william View Post
      Wire wheel or sand blast it, epoxy primer and then new seam sealer.
      Yup. And to keep rust at bay in the hidden areas, dowse the areas with Fluid Film. ( I would recommend doing the Fluid Film AFTER paint work/job is done.)

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      • #4
        Originally posted by william View Post
        Wire wheel or sand blast it, epoxy primer and then new seam sealer.
        ^agreed. I would use a rust converter after sandblasting and before priming since your doing the work already. You can get what i think is called pocket recovery sandblasters that are pretty clean. You dont get sand everywhere.
        When you apply new seam sealer spread it in such a way that it will not trap water.

        Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          You stick the rubber tip up agaist whatever you want, blast it. Move it over, pull trigger, repeat. No sand escapes. Recovery bag catches it. Works great.

          Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by lessersivad View Post
            Yup. And to keep rust at bay in the hidden areas, dowse the areas with Fluid Film. ( I would recommend doing the Fluid Film AFTER paint work/job is done.)
            Yup, although i would wait at least a month before applying it over new paint.

            Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
              ...
              You can get what i think is called pocket recovery sandblasters that are pretty clean. You dont get sand everywhere...

              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
              Any idea what the price range is on one of those? I don't think that's something I will end up using very often...

              Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
              ...
              When you apply new seam sealer spread it in such a way that it will not trap water.

              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
              How do I do that... I thought with seam sealer the goal was to completely cover the seam? Are you supposed to leave a drain hole?
              A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

              Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

              FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
              Instagram: jaredbear82

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
                Any idea what the price range is on one of those? I don't think that's something I will end up using very often...



                How do I do that... I thought with seam sealer the goal was to completely cover the seam? Are you supposed to leave a drain hole?
                It was on sale for $60 CAD iirc which is like $10 american

                Yes, you need to cover the seam, no drain hole but dont cover drain holes in panels... just say you do a seam along the bottom of the door. Smooth it out so as the water runs down the door it just runs right over the seam sealer and continues down the door. Dont leave ridges or undercuts that will pool water or water will sit in.

                Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
                Last edited by ryanprins13; 10-12-2017, 06:56 PM.

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                • #9
                  Oooooooh ok. Now I'm debating whether I should redo all my seams or just where the sealer is cracked...
                  A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                  Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                  Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                  Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                  FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                  Instagram: jaredbear82

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well it depends how much is cracked and where its cracked. If you look at it and where the water would flow or sit when it rains and its only cracked in small areas that see the most water just do those. If its more widespread or random spots i would do everything lower down that sees water.
                    Kind of up to you. When i do things i usually overdo it.
                    Like im replacing a leaking valve cover so i may as well replace the distributor seal, remove & clean the hla's and rocker tubesas well as measure the camshaft right? And since im doing that i may as well replace the valve stem seals too right?
                    Thats just how i think, and thats a bad example because redoing a vc gasket later to clean hla's is far easier than repainting a car because it rusted out because you didnt prep it well enough before it was painted the first time.
                    Anyway, just depends how bad it is, although i would likely do it.

                    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      So far, the car is very clean and I've only seen small bits of rust in a couple spots, so I'll do a thorough inspection and see where it goes
                      A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                      Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                      Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                      Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                      FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                      Instagram: jaredbear82

                      Comment

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