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  • Falling shifter

    My shifter has fallen through the floor. I recently removed the transmission and did.not support the shifter bar or stabilizer bar and as a result the shifter fell through the floor of the car.

    I know there are several old posts about how to fix this, however they all basically refer to photos (which no longer exist) to explain what work was done.

    So I get it. There are supposed to be a couple of rubber mounts that hold the shifter up through friction. Mine broke off. I've been jamming rubber pieces in there temporarily to keep it from falling but it doesn't really work well.

    Older posts suggest bolting it in place or using self tapping screws to support the shifter.

    Even though this topic has been covered could someone help explain it to me because I can not figure out how to fix this from the older posts.
    Last edited by Timothy; 11-05-2017, 09:37 AM.
    1992 Ford Festiva 1.3 L 4-cylinder

  • #2
    I'm drilling a hole through the floor right above the shifter down through the stabilizer bar collar. Will update with photo.
    1992 Ford Festiva 1.3 L 4-cylinder

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    • #3
      Photobucket isn't working for me right now, so there still aren't any photos.

      So I took the car for a test drive. This method definitely transfers engine and transmission vibrations to the stick shifter. I guess that is why they used rubber in the first place. ��
      1992 Ford Festiva 1.3 L 4-cylinder

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Timothy View Post
        Photobucket isn't working for me right now, so there still aren't any photos.

        So I took the car for a test drive. This method definitely transfers engine and transmission vibrations to the stick shifter. I guess that is why they used rubber in the first place. ��
        I can probably fix some of the Pictures in the other threads. I will look through them.

        Please try switching over to Imgur to host your pictures. Photobucket is a disaster right now, they are the reason so many threads on the forums no longer work. They are charging $400 a year to allow users to post photos onto forums, it's incredibly scummy.
        Will Samet

        JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

        JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

        1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

        How to find me:
        Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
        Feel free to PM me anytime!
        Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
        Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET

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        • #5
          Cool. Thanks for the help. Yeah, just tried to charge me that amount to look at photos too. Pretty messed up.
          1992 Ford Festiva 1.3 L 4-cylinder

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Timothy View Post
            Cool. Thanks for the help. Yeah, just tried to charge me that amount to look at photos too. Pretty messed up.
            Yea, it's a real shame. So many threads on our forums and others have been rendered useless due to the complete lack of photos as Photobucket holds them hostage.

            If you see any other threads with broken Images, or need help with anything image hosting related, please send me a PM. Fixing Photo links is my primary Moderator duty!
            Will Samet

            JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

            JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

            1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

            How to find me:
            Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
            Feel free to PM me anytime!
            Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
            Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET

            Comment


            • #7
              The Best AND the EASIEST and among the least expensive fix is to Window Weld the center circle of the shifter to the round outer part. It works like a charm- I was skeptical when someone wrote it here and asked them again- and they were RIGHT- it holds the shifter up fast-

              I wondered if I'd have to redo it this year- but I haven't - I've never replaced the bushings either, although I have some- just no time or health- I thought my syncros were shot last summer- 2016- and I needed a new tranny, but the window weld glue fix has given me another full year and 3000 miles of use wih NO TROUBLE- The shifters still sloppy, but still works without grinding

              96 Aspire with 126K

              Another crazy thing- the transaxle was leaking- so I started refilling with thicker gear oil- it seemed to maybe be working a small bit this spring- I then put in about two or three OZ of copper BLOCKLEAK Stop- and it totally arrested the leak it seems- time to check again- and NO shifting problems. Pretty happy with that, I think the leak was around a lever.
              Last edited by harpon; 11-06-2017, 10:04 PM.

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              • #8
                I just super glue the rubber together. 10 yrs now its been a one time fix

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by harpon View Post
                  The Best AND the EASIEST and among the least expensive fix is to Window Weld the center circle of the shifter to the round outer part. It works like a charm- I was skeptical when someone wrote it here and asked them again- and they were RIGHT- it holds the shifter up fast-

                  I wondered if I'd have to redo it this year- but I haven't - I've never replaced the bushings either, although I have some- just no time or health- I thought my syncros were shot last summer- 2016- and I needed a new tranny, but the window weld glue fix has given me another full year and 3000 miles of use wih NO TROUBLE- The shifters still sloppy, but still works without grinding

                  96 Aspire with 126K

                  Another crazy thing- the transaxle was leaking- so I started refilling with thicker gear oil- it seemed to maybe be working a small bit this spring- I then put in about two or three OZ of copper BLOCKLEAK Stop- and it totally arrested the leak it seems- time to check again- and NO shifting problems. Pretty happy with that, I think the leak was around a lever.
                  That is exactly the product I was looking for. I was thinking about filling the whole cavity with caulk but was afraid it wouldn't stick or last. So you just literally fill the whole empty space with the window weld all the way around the circle? That looks like a great solution and it will probably retain its flexibility so it would dampen sound and vibration I would assume.
                  Last edited by Timothy; 11-07-2017, 11:17 AM.
                  1992 Ford Festiva 1.3 L 4-cylinder

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                  • #10
                    If you do the window weld do it in at least 2 steps if you fill it all the way in one shot it will never cure in the center.
                    I like the superglue fix if there is rubber left on both sides .
                    SuperglueING rubber to rubber is a stronger bond then the rubber it's self.

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