Car dying, what's going on?

[kevyrev]

So we are back at it again! Just got brakes figured out, YES! Then it was boiling in overflow tank. Thanks to you guys which led me to a faulty thermostat, YES! Thanks again!
So now we are killing batteries. Car was dead, son called from school, got it jumped and barely made it home (15 min drive). Think one of his friends may have hooked up jumper cables reversed polarity and popped what was left of the main fuse jumper wire. So I replaced it with one of the green box type 40 amp fuses. But it keeps dying after like 15-20 min of driving. First thing I really needed to clean the battery clamps because the were really rusted and somewhat corroded. Think maybe had a dead cell in battery or they finished it off with cables so picked up a new battery. Checked voltage at battery with meter and car running and getting just over 14 volts.
Thought this was all behind me but, few days and it's dead again, ugh!
So just went and got a new alternator and a new belt and it's back to putting 14 volts to battery. Apparently I tightened belt too tight because he said it started smoking and shredded off just a few miles down the road.
Tonight went to pick up car because he was lucky enough to be near a friends house and pulled off road right away when belt broke. I picked up another belt and we got it on and I was mindful to not put it on so tight. So just as he pulled up our driveway the lights went dim and car died. Belt was still on so.....???
What am I missing? I wonder if the battery clamps need to be replaced. I did clean them with sandpaper and they are starting to turn again. Hopefully someone can be of assistance or you know what I'm missing or not doing right, thanks!

[Rick the Quick]

I have never had any luck with replacing battery cable ends. You would be better off replacing the entire cable. All thew new batteries and alternators are only as good as the cables. The alternator belt should be tight enough to where you can press down on it about half way between the alternator and water pump pulleys and see about 3/8" deflection. You may want to use a straight edge to make sure the pulleys are aligned. I have seen instances where a 1mm thick washer was needed at the long through bolt. In other words the alternator needs to fit snugly where it pivots or it will be slightly cocked causing the pulleys to be mis aligned and causing belts to squel, shred and smoke. good luck!

[WmWatt]

The current may be draining off somwhere. I think you can check that by disconnecting a battery cable and using the VOM to check for any current flow amps when the engine is not running.

[kevyrev]

I did a parasitic amp drain test and it's good. Negative clamp bolts are white, again. Think I'll go ahead and replace the clamps today. They were really bad before I cleaned them the first time. Probably should have just replaced to begin with. I guess I need to figure out the belt tension because I just started it and belt is really loud and smoking, getting hot. If I went for a drive it would shred off in a few minutes!

[Rick the Quick]

See post #2

[kevyrev]

Thanks Rick the Quick! Apparently belt is too tight because I'm only able to push it in about 1/4". I'll get back out there and see what I can do as soon as this rain stops.

[ryanprins13]

Perhaps see if the alternator and waterpump pullys spin nicely. If the waterpump bearing is going perhaps its that pully causing the issues. Running the belt too tight can wreck that bearing.
Negative cable is easy to replace, positive not so much. Perhaps replace the negative and use baking soda or buy some good cleaners and a wire brush for the positive side.
Of course if your willing to replace the positive thats much better.

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[kevyrev]

Ok, this is strange. I removed new belt and checked pulleys. Water pump pulley moves freely and no wobble or drag so bearing seems good. Keep in mind I just put on a new re-manufactured alternator. That pulley is good. So I decided to put on the old belt and no more squeaking noise. I also removed neg. cable and cleaned far end ( was just greasy) and cut off fresh piece about an inch and stripped insulation and cleaned clamp again. Also cleaned positive clamp again. At this point had to jump the battery and then got my meter and it's just steadily dropping voltage. Alternator is not charging the battery. When I first installed new alternator it was putting 14.3 volts to battery. Now battery dropped all the way to 8.6 and when I opened door it almost died, so I pushed the brake pedal to put it out of it's misery. I'm sure the parts store will not swap the new alt for another one. Guess I'll put the old one back and see what the crap happens next.
I was using my meter to touch on all parts like battery post, clamp, and the bare wires coming from cables to make sure to get a good reading.

[ryanprins13]

If the alternator is bad they will warrenty it. Did the new fuseable link pop? If there is a short in the wire from the alt to the battery this is a possibility.
Are the 2 smaller wires plugged all the way into the alt? Maybe that plug loosened out.

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[kevyrev]

The new fuseable link (40 amp main) did not pop. Also the wire and harness to alternator are on tight. Guess I'm heading to parts store to see what they'll do. I'm afraid they prob test it and say nope she's good and it's prob an issue with your car!

[Rick the Quick]

When the alternator checks out good invest in new cables. The replacement ends are a constant source of trouble, that is unless they are soldered on.

[kevyrev]

I followed the positive cable and seems as if I have to take off the manifold. I can only feel where it is connected, can't see it or anything. Negative cable, no problem, Positive cable, Dear Lord! Anyway she's taking the new one back to store and we'll see what they do.

[WmWatt]

^^Testing the alternator will provide valuable information. Good luck.

[kevyrev]

Well spent a few hours in the light rain, in the dark, putting on another new alternator. Also put on new battery terminals. This new piece of crap had the top mount hole stripped out. So had to go last minute during install to store and get a bolt, washer and nut that would fit just to tighten down alternator. I'm referring to the top mount that has tension adjustment.
So finally start up and go through a few rounds of shutting it off, adjusting belt tension to stop smoking and squealing, and time to check with voltage meter.
SERIOUSLY, ARE YOU KIDDING ME!! It started and 12.something volts and started dropping while car is idling. It seemed to stay at 11.7 and it was running okay. I turned on everything I could think of and it still ran. So I go inside and let it sit and idle hoping it will start charging battery close to 14 volts like it should. I started to think that maybe my meters battery is running low. Checked a few sockets in the house, and meter is dead on.
Came back outside after about 15 min and still running. Didn't want to go down the road because I'm only one home and no one here to come rescue me for a while, been there already. So I thought heck I'll just go down my street and come back, NOPE! She died as soon as I put my foot on the brake.
What's worse is my son is really looking forward to driving it to school, but it's not happening any time soon. I'm a bit tired of throwing money that I don't have at it.
Guess it will go to the dam shop because I don't even want to look at if now. If I had a 50 cal. I'd blow the thing up tonight I'm sure.
It's prob the positive cable like some have said, but what if it's not. I'm already out a new battery, alternator, belt, terminals, and priceless frustration! Behind on house payment and power bill too, I really can't do anymore buying parts. I'm done ranting, sorry. Love the little car but OMG!!

[ricko1966]

Does your charging indicator light work?If it is not working I would suspect that is the problem many alternators use the charge indicator lamp to excite the alternator feild windings so an inop charge light wil cause a no alternator output condition. Not all cars are this way some use the ecm but I would still check my indicator light,

So we are back at it again! Just got brakes figured out, YES! Then it was boiling in overflow tank. Thanks to you guys which led me to a faulty thermostat, YES! Thanks again!
So now we are killing batteries. Car was dead, son called from school, got it jumped and barely made it home (15 min drive). Think one of his friends may have hooked up jumper cables reversed polarity and popped what was left of the main fuse jumper wire. So I replaced it with one of the green box type 40 amp fuses. But it keeps dying after like 15-20 min of driving. First thing I really needed to clean the battery clamps because the were really rusted and somewhat corroded. Think maybe had a dead cell in battery or they finished it off with cables so picked up a new battery. Checked voltage at battery with meter and car running and getting just over 14 volts.
Thought this was all behind me but, few days and it's dead again, ugh!
So just went and got a new alternator and a new belt and it's back to putting 14 volts to battery. Apparently I tightened belt too tight because he said it started smoking and shredded off just a few miles down the road.
Tonight went to pick up car because he was lucky enough to be near a friends house and pulled off road right away when belt broke. I picked up another belt and we got it on and I was mindful to not put it on so tight. So just as he pulled up our driveway the lights went dim and car died. Belt was still on so.....???
What am I missing? I wonder if the battery clamps need to be replaced. I did clean them with sandpaper and they are starting to turn again. Hopefully someone can be of assistance or you know what I'm missing or not doing right, thanks!