Control Arm Bolt Spins... Sigh

[93FestyEh]

So here's where I'm at. The right control arm bolt is loose and spins. I searched and read for an hour or more so I know exactly why it's happening and have a good idea on how to fix it, however I have a few questions regarding this somewhat common issue that I didn't see answered elsewhere:

1. The metal cage is still there but I used a screwdriver wedged in there from the factory bottom access hole to try and tighten the bolt and all it did was tear and distort the cage. Am I supposed to be trying to just break off what's left of the cage now? It seems pretty solid.

2. I plan on drilling a 3/4" or 1" hole on the inside of that "frame rail" to access things (what size should I be using??). Then I can use other tools like pliers or a wrench to tighten it, plus it will make future replacement easier.

3. The new bolt that comes with the Moog control arm, is it for the body/frame end of the arm or is it for the ball joint pinch bolt? It doesn't say. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...8248&jsn=16597 - I plan on ordering 2 from RA but for now I want to get my front end tight so it's safer to drive in the short term.

4. When I actually get to replacing the control arm, do I need to disconnect the strut from the knuckle and take out the axle like that YouTube vid shows? It seems to me from what I've read I should just need to disconnect the ball joint end from the pinch bolt, then the sway bar bushing section, then finally the "frame" side bolt last.

I already know about using penetrant ahead of time and anti-seize etc. during the replacement.

Thx.

[ryanprins13]

That sucks.
I use antisieze lube on everything now, wish i had 10yrs ago. Ive broken my share of captive nuts loose, but not that one.

1. dunno, would something bigger like a prybar help? Can you drill the hole first then use a wrench or vicegrips?

2. Smear some grease on the metal you cut so it doesnt rust away.
Dunno the size, I would pick a wrench that youll use and see what the smallest size hole it will fit through is. Then drill that size hole. Its a 14mm head bolt, nut could be larger. If your hole is too small you could file it bigger after.

3. Its the ball joint pinch bolt. They also dont come with the outer bushings. The MAS ones on rockauto work, i just installed them last week. They are cheaper than the moog ones and appear the same quality although the moog ones are a nice blue. Moog costs more. I would order from moog instead. I ordered moog control arms from rockauto and got one moog but i am 99% sure the other one isnt moog. I ordered another set with moog bushings from here and they shipped directly from a federal mogul warehouse. http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...d_festiva_1992








4. Loosen sway bar to lca bolt. Remove outer bushing. Remove pinch bolt. Remove lca to body bolt. Then remove lca. Then replace lca. Simple as that. If the sway bar is corroded where the bushings go over clesn it up. Make sure to put the new metal cups on the right way, most get put on backwards.



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[Eviljimchicken]

What worked for me is bending the metal away from the captured with a screwdriver through the access hole on the frame rail until you can fit a socket on it. Then depending on your ratchet/extensions you might be able to get at the nut. I wasn't and ended up grinding flat sides on the socket and putting an open end wrench on it to hold it.

[jimdigs]

I tore the old nut cage out. I just drilled a 1 inch hole in the side. I could fit my small socket into and hold the nut. I did go buy a longer bolt at lowes with the highest strength rating I think it was an 8.

[Eviljimchicken]

I tore the old nut cage out. I just drilled a 1 inch hole in the side. I could fit my small socket into and hold the nut. I did go buy a longer bolt at lowes with the highest strength rating I think it was an 8.

The reason I didn't drill a hole was to try and preserve the structural integrity of the frame rail, but i'm sure a 1 inch hole wont hurt it lol.

[ricko1966]

I cut the head off of one of mine with a 4 inch grinder. Then drove the bolt with captured nut still on it in.When I replaced it I used a new bolt a new regular nut antiseeze it was a bit@@ holding the regular nut but I didn't cut up or bend up the car.Sears makes socket adapters that allow you to use a combination wrench on a regular socket, that is what i used to hold the nut.You do not have to remove anything. First take your outer tierod end nut off whack the side of the knuckle with a hammer to pop the tierod end out, that allows you to move the knuckle left,right,straight wherever just to make life easier. Now undo your ball joint pinch bolt. Stick a long prybar under the bumper over the control arm and have it rest on the frame rail push down with your foot the ball joint should pull out of the knuckle. If not get a friend, do your best contorsion act whatever to put pressure on the pry bar and smack the control arm a couple times. now remove your inner pivot bolt take the nut off the stabilizer bar and pull the arm off.

[WmWatt]

^^other people have reported cutting the head off the bolt with an electric hacksaw
I tend to apply a liberal amount of grease to exposed nut and bolts in an attempt to prevent them getting seized with corrosion. You might want to trty that with the new bolt.

[93FestyEh]

It took twice as long as I expected but I used a holesaw to make an opening in the frame rail and then go in and smashed down the cage and get a wrench on the nut. I forgot to take a photo but if I think of it next time the car is in the air I will take one. The car drives much better now and my new parts order from rock auto is on it's way.