RR brake sticky or applies harder than the rest

[93FestyEh]

So I noticed the other day when I braked on a rough dirty road that the RR brake locked up when the rest of the brakes braked normally.

How hard is it to replace the rear drum brakes? I have not taken a look at them physically yet although mechanically I know I can change them. I've changed drum and disc brakes before but I think these are a little different because I think you need to take off the wheel bearings to do it on the festy.

I'm not interesting in any upgrades or swaps, just stock replacement parts.

[firebush357]

You don't have to replace the bearings to do the rear brakes but they will come out when you take the drum off. The Races are pressed into the drum but the bearings themselves are loose so just make sure not to get it dirty. The Right Rear has a left handed thread on the Spindle Nut so make sure not to destroy it... Most of us would recommend that you go ahead and replace the bearings while you are at it but it doesn't have to be done. Make sure not to torque the Spindle Nut down too tight when you are done as well because that will destroy the Bearings too.

[ryanprins13]

So I noticed the other day when I braked on a rough dirty road that the RR brake locked up when the rest of the brakes braked normally.

How hard is it to replace the rear drum brakes? I have not taken a look at them physically yet although mechanically I know I can change them. I've changed drum and disc brakes before but I think these are a little different because I think you need to take off the wheel bearings to do it on the festy.

I'm not interesting in any upgrades or swaps, just stock replacement parts.

Most likely the rear adjuster is siezed. Get a haynes manual, it has step by step instructions with pictures, take it all apart, free up the adjuster and reinstall. Regrease bearings and reinstall. If properly tightened, greased, grease seal and dust cap dont get damaged the rear bearings can easily last 150k miles. Change the grease seal, repack both bearings and follow the directions for tightening the nut from the haynes manual. Should be good on that. I always recheck the tightness after driving 10 miles or so.

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[WmWatt]

To remove the axle nut just turn. The deformity which keeps it from turning on its own will will straighten out as you turn the nut. The drum should pull staright off but some find the shoes are too tight, especially if lie yours it's not releasing. One way to get around that is bolt the wheel back on and hit or kick it to get the drum off. it's a good idea to check the hand brake pivot as they tend to rust and seize. Grease it well on the outside where it is exposed to weather and spray.

[93FestyEh]

I had to do a hard brake today and the RR wheel locked up and squealed down the street. Whoops. Will have to look at it. Hopefully I don't need to spend too much on parts as I already know I need a RF rotor so it needs some work up front although the brakes work just fine otherwise.

p.s. I have a Haynes manual but I also have the factory shop manual. Haven't had time to look at anything yet though.

[lessersivad]

To remove the axle nut just turn. The deformity which keeps it from turning on its own will will straighten out as you turn the nut.

Well IF his Festy is a '93, (assuming from the OP's user name) then it should have a simple cotter pin arrangement.

[WmWatt]

^^^ Thanks, missed that.