Dead in water - No response start

[SoCalZ28]

1990 Festiva L
147K miles

The Festiva has been leaking oil for a while, it blows back on the alternator. Started with the battery charge dash light dimly glowing and a rough idle at start. Thinking the oil was inhibiting the alternator I sprayed it off with degreaser a few times, thought it seemed to help. Anyway, yesterday driving around I noticed the voltage was jumping around 12v to 18v. Signs of a bad alternator right? Before reaching my destination I also though I noticed the radio pop a couple times.

Upon trying to leave and restart the car. there is no response when I turn the ignition. No dash lights, no dome, no radio, no brake lights, no power except for headlights work.

Any ideas??

[w4rkry]

Definitely sounds like your alternator is done for.

Have you checked your Fusible Links? (3 main fuses on driver side strut)
An 18v spike may have fried them.
If you haven't already, regardless if they are good or bad, you should replace those with actual Long Leg cartridge fuses. 30, 40, 30 Amps (Pink, Green, Pink)

[WmWatt]

No electical power? Check battery and fuses. Voltmeter or test light will do it.

[Studebaker]

Had this problem one time when the timing cover was not on. The oil leak was so bad for so long it soaked the alt. and killed it. The cover does channel most of the oil to the ground / bottom of car

[WmWatt]

If the oil leak can't be stopped then perhaps a shield can be made to fit over the alternator out of a suitably sized plastic jug.

[SoCalZ28]

Thanks guys! I’ve already done the fuse carts swap. Yesterday I threw in a green 40A fuse and when it didn’t work I was stumped and was out of time. Hence my post. After reading your replies I got my multimeter and started poking around when I noticed, for lack of the technical term, the ‘inseam’ of the replacement fuse was not as tall as the blown fuse. So I gutted the blown fuse components and stuffed the good 40A components in the blown shell. Presto start-o!

Been watching the volts and they are steady around 14.7v so that’s good. I suppose I may have drown the alt in degreaser.. but seems to be okay for now. Lesson learned: Alternators don’t take kindly to motor oil and degreaser baths.

[william]

I had this problem without the oil it was the link that was causing all my problems it was corroded within the coating.
Causing the altinator to go crazy. I replaced the fuse with a log legged pal fuse and cleaned the block along with all my grounds. And the problem was solved and didn't have to replace the altinator.

[SoCalZ28]

Very true on the fuseable links. Horrible design. Those were one of the first things I did to my festy and never looked back.

Studebaker- I believe my oil leak is also coming from the timing cover. How does one go about fixing that?

WmWatt- Very creative thinking & I like it! Your suggestion will be considered if the oil leak continues to pleauge me.

[w4rkry]

Very true on the fuseable links. Horrible design. Those were one of the first things I did to my festy and never looked back.

Studebaker- I believe my oil leak is also coming from the timing cover. How does one go about fixing that?

WmWatt- Very creative thinking & I like it! Your suggestion will be considered if the oil leak continues to pleauge me.

The timing cover itself shouldn't have any oil behind it. As a matter of fact, many people run without this cover at all as it warps and rubs the pulleys over time.

It is probably coming from an engine seal behind the cover then slipping past. Check the valve cover gasket, cam seal, and the crank seal. Those are the big 3 on that side of the engine.

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