Speedo cable broken -- difficulties replacing inside part that spins

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

See first ("overview") photo. From top down:
Top: Apparently complete cable removed from donor FI parts car in WA.
Middle: Cable segment removed from subject car (a 92 FI in AK).
Bottom: Shell removed from subject car.


The cable segment was very difficult to remove (from the speedometer end). My guess is that the shell is all gummed up inside (and that's probably the reason the cable broke -- actually the speedo hasn't worked since I bought the car back in 2009).

I can not see a second cable segment from the gearbox end, but I can't push an awl into the shell, so I suspect there's something in there but I don't know how to remove it.

Interestingly, some white nylon bushing type thing came out with the cable segment I removed. What is it? See second photo for detail.

The simplest thing would be to just buy an entire new assembly -- is there a source? BTW, the firewall rubber part seems OK, but I may have mangled the ears on the hard plastic part during removal. One of the ears is almost broken off. Which way do the ears go, anyway?

Or, looking for suggestions on how to "recondition" the shell, including removing whatever second broken piece of spinning cable may still be inside it.

I looked back 5 years for threads on this site -- nothing really helps.

[hot4dl8ly]

IF I recall correctly... The cable slides out the trans end of the housing after it is unscrewed from the speedo gear housing. Lubricate with a lithium complex grease (not white lithium) like lubriplate aero, LBR-ST, saw some fairly reasonable on an online auction site. Used something like this on mine and speedo needle hasn't bounced since (mine was actually labelled speedo cable lube, said lithium complex in small print) Not sure how to get broken piece out, maybe force it through with cable already removed ? I hope this helps some.

[WmWatt]

The cable fits inside the housing. If the cable end inside the housing where it is broken is frayed it could be binding. I'd check the way the cable is twisted together and turn with the twist instead of against it while pulling out of the housing. It should be the same as bicycle gear and brake cable with which I have some experience.

[Rick the Quick]

You might want to squirt some penetrating oil down the housing and then try pushing the broken cable out with the good cable. The housings generally last a long time providing they don't get kinked. Hot4dl8 had a good suggestion with Lubriplate, I don't know about the aero part. I do know I have had a can of Lubriplate for at least 30 years and I have always had good results using it on cables. It was sold at the Chevy dealer and had a GM part number on it. I am not sure where you would find it today. As for buying a new cable assembly you may want to look on eBay. I seen them for as high as $80 for New Old Stock original equipment and as low as $16 for the Made in China variety. I bought one for $16 and it arrived with no inner cable. The seller gave me a refund and told me to keep the housing. I bought the last one he had. This was a year ago and I imagine there are more on there today. I ended up getting a good one at a salvage yard for $10.

[Studebaker]

search for my thread on speedo cables. best bet buy a used one.

[hot4dl8ly]

speedo cable

R/A has them for manual trans applications, $17 and change + shipping. Also found one for an auto trans on ebay.