crankshaft seal causing bogging?

[anthony1707]

Hey everybody so i have a 1991 festiva that bogs extremely badly under acceleration, so much so that the car is not currently drivable. I have replaced fuel injectors, tested t.p.s , have ensured that there are no vacuum leaks and have been fighting this problem for awhile. I can get the car to idle by continuously starting and giving gas, but the car will still die if i try to give the car throttle. The issue is that when i pull on the throttle cable the car bogs down and dies, and today I covered the intake hose with my hand to create a vacuum and i can hear air being pushed out of the crankshaft seal. I am certain that the air is being pushed from the crankseal, so my question is that enough to make the car undrivable? I have taken it up and down the street but it is very rough and dies when i try to drive normally. There are no check engine lights. Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

[bolokid]

Timing? Timing belt?

[Studebaker]

do a compression check.

[anthony1707]

yes so I have checked the timing belt as well as the distributor. I find top dead center by feeling for compression at the number one cylinder, and then aligning the two marks on the cam sprocket and the indentation on the crank sprocket shows that the distributor is pointing to the number one cylinder. I think timing is correct and i can get it to rev and idle but its under load or under quick acceleration which it dies. I did a compression test, and the results are a bit unnerving. 1. 115 , 2. 119 3. 80 4. 88

[WmWatt]

Low compression in adjacent cyclinders could indicate a leak in the head gasket between them.
Usually a wet compression test is done at the same time to check for worn rings but then the engine often also makes smoke as the oil burns during operation.

[ryanprins13]

I changed my crank seal and got the timing belt a tooth off when reinstalling amd my car did almost exactly what yours is doing. What happened or what work was done to it immediatly before this starting happening? Anything like hitting a big bump or gassing up at a less reputable gas station would be relevant.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[ryanprins13]

Also is air being pushed out of or sucked in the crank seal? If you cover the intake with the car running it should try to suck air through the pcv intake which would draw air through any leaks in the block and head like a leaking crank seal.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[anthony1707]

So I did a lot of the work all at once with the timing belt, clutch, head gasket, and all the seals (crank, rear main, valve cover etc....). Ever since that big operation I have not been able to get the car to run properly. The car is sucking air in through the crank seal when I block of intake. I suppose that the timing belt could be off a tooth and after checking it I think it is correct but I would want to make sure that it is my problem before I redo it but if that's the case I absolutely will.

[ryanprins13]

Ok. When i was off one tooth it idled perfect but would bog down bad with throttle. It wouldnt die though. Its a ton of work to check again but probably worth it. Could be something else but i think most likely timing belt is off. Maybe you didnt get the tensioner tight enough and it slipped a tooth or 2, maybe it just was off. When we redid mine it was only an hour of work i think. Gotta make sure the marks on the lower sprocket and upper sprocket are lined up perfect. They look so close if their off a tooth still, lol.
Thats all i can think of.

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[firebush357]

With those compression numbers my guess would be that your timing is 1 tooth off. A quick was to check would be to turn your distributor as far as it can go both ways and see if one way makes it better, the other way would probably shut the car down.

[anthony1707]

okay, thank you for the advice! I turned the distributor, and going one way makes it way better, while it will barley start/run or not run at all on the other side. This was my first time pulling and taking the engine apart so I suppose I was bound to make some kind of mistake, and I remember when putting the belt on it would slip a little bit when i was actually able to fit the belt on. I was testing the tps and fuel pressure and chasing my tail so it looks like I will just have to learn from this and get it right. I was also thinking about the compression numbers. Being honest, I just used a harbor freight compression test kit and cranked the engine with the tube in one cylinder at a time(plugs out of all cylinders). I did not pump gas or do anything other thank crank it, would this yield incorrect results?

[firebush357]

It will work well enough for diagnosing but

1. You should pull the fuel pump or injector fuse so you don't shoot fuel into the cylinder.
2. Hold the Throttle open while cranking.

You should be seeing 160psi+ for a healthy 25 year old B3 from what I have seen.

[Studebaker]

Everyone has messed up replacing a timing belt. Don't let it get to you.

[william]

Compression test should be done with throttle wide open.
And finding top dead center by feeling for compression it probably why your timing belt is off make sure the v is pointed to the noch in the lower tbelt gear befour lining up the cam and putting the belt on.
And don't worry to much about a misaligned belt it happens.
Main thing is your figured it out.

[firebush357]

Everyone has messed up replacing a timing belt. Don't let it get to you.

That is why I know those compression numbers = 1 tooth off lol. I did it with my first timing belt change on my brothers car.