Rear lid latch not functioning properly -- difficulties disconnecting linkage

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

My "Sunday Best" (perfect 89LX) Festy's read lid won't latch -- something wrong with the mechanism in the lid.

I removed the two screws that hold the latch assembly to structure easily.

Now, I'm trying tot disconnect the linkage. See attached photos of white nylon connection closed, then popped open.

But … the rod to the latch mechanism doesn't just pop out. I don't want to force anything, knowing how unavailable a 10-cent item like the nylon part would be to find.


Anyone know how to release the rod so I can have the latch mechanical assembly on my bench to study/repair/lube/etc?


Thanks!

[monkeykiller1996]

once you got the latch for the nylon holder open the rod just pops out, also don't forget about the rod for the key lock

[WmWatt]

is that corrosion or deposits on the rod? try applying oil to loosen things up.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt,

It's the usual surface corrosion that appears on cadmium-plated (I'm assuming that's what the plating is) rod surface, plus maybe a little rust right on the threads (or is it just ridges) on the rod end.

I'll get a better look at things during daylight today; I was trying to do this in the dark last night since I'm heading two hours away this morning to look at a (or several) Festy parts cars and didn't really want to drive with the rear lid subject to popping open and slowing me down with all that aerodynamic drag effect!

[bravekozak]

Ever since I installed power locks, I have never used the key to open the door for over two years now. Festiva locks are not designed to be disassembled.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

MonkeyKiller1996,

OK, with a little coaxing, the rod popped out of the white nylon part.


All,

So, after disconnecting the pushrod for the key, I got the latch assembly out onto the bench, studied how it works (very clever -- nowadays, we'd have at least a dime 4-bit microcontroller in there), and lubed everything up with spray-on white lithium grease. It works like a charm now.

Since all of the mechanism pivot points are just "rivet" things, there's no way the unit can be disassembled for more thorough lubing.

The problem was simply the latch mechanism --- nothing to do with the key-operated lid lock, which simply (via its pushrod) "enables" the lid release handle to unlatch the lid.

Lubing this assembliy should be on every Festy's 25-year preventative maintenance schedule!

I noticed that there's an electrical contact in the latch which closes (to ground) when the lid is not latched. See the blue wire in the attached "latched" and "not latched" photos. This would indicate that there's some sort of idiot light to signal that the lid is unlatched. I don't recall such a thing -- is this something which has been inoperative on every Festy I've ever owned or what?

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

MonkeyKiller1996,

OK, with a little coaxing, the rod popped out of the white nylon part.


All,

So, after disconnecting the pushrod for the key, I got the latch assembly out onto the bench, studied how it works (very clever -- nowadays, we'd have at least a dime 4-bit microcontroller in there), and lubed everything up with spray-on white lithium grease. It works like a charm now.

This should be on every Festy's 25-year preventative maintenance schedule.

I noticed that there's an electrical contact in the latch which closes (to ground) when the lid is not latched. See the blue wire in the attached "latched" and "not latched" photos. This would indicate that there's some sort of idiot light to signal that the lid is unlatched. I don't recall such a thing -- is this something which has been inoperative on every Festy I've ever owned or what?

[w4rkry]

MonkeyKiller1996,

OK, with a little coaxing, the rod popped out of the white nylon part.


All,

So, after disconnecting the pushrod for the key, I got the latch assembly out onto the bench, studied how it works (very clever -- nowadays, we'd have at least a dime 4-bit microcontroller in there), and lubed everything up with spray-on white lithium grease. It works like a charm now.

This should be on every Festy's 25-year preventative maintenance schedule.

I noticed that there's an electrical contact in the latch which closes (to ground) when the lid is not latched. See the blue wire in the attached "latched" and "not latched" photos. This would indicate that there's some sort of idiot light to signal that the lid is unlatched. I don't recall such a thing -- is this something which has been inoperative on every Festy I've ever owned or what?

That's a rare bonus! Some Festivas (early LX models in particular) came with a rear cargo area light under the passenger side speaker. That wire and switch would activate the light when you open the hatch!

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

[bravekozak]

Do you have a cargo light? Inside right rear speaker area.

Larch closed. Contacts open. No power to the cargo lamp.


Latch open. Contacts closed. Power to the cargo lamp.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Aha! Never knew that. So, theoretically, one could leave the cargo light (which all of my LXs seem to have) switched on all the time, relying on lid closure to turn it off.

[bravekozak]

Exactly.
As long as the light blue wire is connected inside the rear hatch.
Since it's a single hot at all times wire, the rear latch provides the ground.