Replacing rear struts and springs

[Dex~]

I finally have some time to work on my fleet of vehicles again now that I'm about 90% moved in to the new house.

Which is great, because the left side wheel cylinder went out on the Batstiva and the brake fluid killed the bearings.

I got the brakes and bearings put back together fairly quickly only to find that the left hand spindle was stripped out, it took an 18" breaker bar with a jack handle sleeved onto to get that nut off, so that may have also contributed to the wheel bearing failure.

My parts car has good spindles, and i figure I can (hopefully) re-thread the others in my spare time, but since I have to pull the struts to replace the spindles, I figured I should replace everything in the rear while I've got it apart.

Finding struts is no problems, but I haven't found springs anywhere. Do I just reuse the old springs? Or can anyone point me towards where to buy replacement springs.

And finally, any recommendations for replacement struts for a daily driver? Car has a freshly rebuilt stock B3, with an early B6 manifold and drilled out airbox, 5-speed, and factory 12" rims with new Nankang's. I was just going to grab a set of KYB's from Rockauto otherwise.

I am aware of the reverse thread on the spindles and that they should be barely snug with no play in the wheel when installed properly, sadly the last person to put brakes on my car was not.

As always, thanks for the help

[WmWatt]

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[ryanprins13]

Kyb off rockauto are good oem replacements, as are gabriel. Also cheap. Reuse the springs. Have a look at the wheel cylinder before installing. Make sure the bolt holes line up and are threaded. Theres been issues with some aftermarket ones.
The spindles are a very hard metal, quite difficult to rethread if they are really stripped, but can be cleaned if the damage is very light. Dont try if its bad, you dont want a wheel falling off. Spindles can be swapped from either side of a parts car, just remember which way to thread if you flip em around and make sure to tell the buyer if you ever sell it. Before you buy just one rear cylinder check to see if you can loosen the bleed screw on the other side.
Good luck!

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[ryanprins13]

Also check that you can loosen the lower bolts on the rear struts a couple days before you actually want to do this. They can be a real pain of they are seized

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[Team Lightning]

Honestly Dex, if I was replacing one bad rear brake cylinder I’d go ahead and replace both. I’ve see instances where when replacing only one, a week or so later the other went bad . They shouldn’t be very expensive.

[bhazard]

Only the passenger side should be reverse thread. But like Ryan said, you can use a drivers side one on the passenger side.

[Dex~]

I actually found out the spindle was stripped after completely replacing the brakes back to the rubber lines on both sides, so the brake parts aren't the problem.

The left side was a nightmare to get off but went back on super easy, then slid most of the way back off as soon as the car was on the ground...spindle nuts and washers are brand new as well, so I don't think that was the issue.

The right side has a little play in it still, but I'm going to try and clean the threads up and maybe get the drum/hub assembly seated on there a little better, don't want to repeat whatever the last guy did to the left.

Ordering the KYB's tonight, and hosing the strut bolts down with WD-40 when I get home from work, thanks again guys

[firebush357]

The WD-40 won't work if they are seized unfortunately. The problem is that they rust inside the strut bushing and seize up completely and have to be cut off which is a pain in the behind. I would try to get them turning at least a little before you have to cut them off though so you can just use an easy out tool to get the threaded part out so you don't have to drill through it completely. I have had a rear strut take me days to replace because of this issue.

If you have not ordered your new struts yet and want a better option I would suggest doing the rear half of the advance suspension setup. It cost around $200 to do the rear but makes the car feel more stable and allows for more wheel/tire options.

[WmWatt]

The original rear struts on my car were replaced last year. Mechanic said something about a torch.

[Dex~]

Got the KYB's from RA on the way already, I've got a torch and have access to a sawzall if I need it.

I'm not super worried about the struts on mine, but the parts car I'm pulling the spindles from is extra crusty, so that's gonna be fun.

[WmWatt]

I start with penetrating oil and a wire brush on rusty fastners. Good luck.

[ricko1966]

I say if they give you too much trouble, cut the lower bolt with a sawzall ,then use a punch and hammer to drive the cut bolt and captured nut out, use a new nut,bolt and antiseize going back together, should be butter. I learned this the hardway when one of my captured nuts started spinning, now it's my go too unless things are just coming apart easy.Couple of minutes with a sawzall a couple minutes with the hammer and the new hardware practcally installs itself.No rust,no dirt and lubricated.

[Daveylikey]

Just got through pulling mine out yesterday. Torch was the only way to get one out as the alignment shop broke the captured nut free and the bolt was rusted solid in the bushing sleeve. I undid the other side first then cut the shock on the troubled side so the axle could hang down lower. Once I did that there was plenty of room to cut the offending bolt out without excessively heating everything else up. I've got new Monroe's on the way. Hopefully yours comes apart easier than mine did.


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[Flw Sock]

I just did this job last week. It was a bear. I had to plasmacut the bolt and bushing out of the bottom of the strut. Then I had to plasmacut the rest of the bolt out from the capture nut. One side I accidentally cut the whole capture nut out, but was able to put a new nut and washer through the frame with a line wrench and tape.

I also replaced the rear shoes, bearings and wheel cylinders during this time. One of my drums was rusted so bad I had to weld metal to refab half of the drum!

What are the pieces of rubber on top of the spring called? I know the fronts have the strut rubber/bearing thing, but it looks like the rear just has a rubber seat where the spring sits. Is it necessary to replace this? Mine were pretty eaten but the parts store couldn't find the part I was talking about and I have no idea what it's called. (Also, Festiva Pros, could you remind me what the rubber thing/bearing for the front shocks were called as well?)

[Dragonhealer]

I just did this job last week. It was a bear. I had to plasmacut the bolt and bushing out of the bottom of the strut. Then I had to plasmacut the rest of the bolt out from the capture nut. One side I accidentally cut the whole capture nut out, but was able to put a new nut and washer through the frame with a line wrench and tape.

I also replaced the rear shoes, bearings and wheel cylinders during this time. One of my drums was rusted so bad I had to weld metal to refab half of the drum!

What are the pieces of rubber on top of the spring called? I know the fronts have the strut rubber/bearing thing, but it looks like the rear just has a rubber seat where the spring sits. Is it necessary to replace this? Mine were pretty eaten but the parts store couldn't find the part I was talking about and I have no idea what it's called. (Also, Festiva Pros, could you remind me what the rubber thing/bearing for the front shocks were called as well?)

Those spring packings (don't know the Japanese or Ford nomenclature) haven't been available for years. I have never found an exact replacement for them.
Currently I'm using Mazda pn NC10-28-0A3A

On the front they are called srtut mounts or strut bearings usually.