Front-end clunking sounds

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

89LX Festy.

Not long after replacing the stabilizer bar end bushings (to LCAs) and making sure stabilizer bar to frame bushings seemed OK, I get annoying dull "clunk" sounds from the front end, even when going straight down good freeeways, and there's no additional noise when turning, so I'm thinking it's probably not drive shafts.

I'm thinking McPherson struts, but would like more than just a "hunch" that that's what it is before tearing into it. O'Reilly pointed out that there are bearings on top of the struts -- I guess to facilitate steering, so there's maybe another prime suspect.

When I jump on either end of the front bumper, the car returns to normal attitude without any real bouncing, which would indicate it's NOT the McPhersons, right?

Any words of brilliance out there as to what this might be?

The car is rust-free with 133K on the meter and less than 10K on new 12" tires and there's no shaking at any speed. I torqued all the stabilizer bar stuff with a torque wrench during reassembly. Other than the stabilizer bar bushings, I've never done any front-end work since I bought the car 3 years and 20,000 miles ago.

[Flw Sock]

Balljoint?

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Flw Sock,

That's any idea. Perhaps even worn-out bushings where the LCAs attach to the frame. When I was installing new stabilizer end bushings, I tried wiggling everything and saw nothing obviously wrong. But of course, that's not under any real load.

I'm not keen on crawling under cars on jacks, so I just made an appointment for a free alignment check at the local Goodyear shop for tomorrow. The guy I talked to said they'd do a courtesy suspension inspection looking for stuff not right.

[WmWatt]

I went through that. Turned out to be loose bolts on one of teh brake rotors, and the hub has to be pulled from the knucke to get at them. Other posssibilies are motor mounts and control arm pinch bolts.

BTW Festivas don't have strut bearings. Some people put KIA Rio struts on because they have bearings.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt,

I just did the front brakes a while back, and torqued up the attach bolts to spec per my 1993 Ford Service Manual.
When driving, it just sounds like the shocks are completely worn out -- every crack in the freeway causes a little muffled "clunk" sound.

The strut bearings thing from O'Reilly threw me for a loop; he must have been looking up Fiesta or something.

I'll see what Goodyear finds up on the lift on Saturday.

[WmWatt]

Modern struts are double action, one for small bumps and vibration, one for large bumps. When I bounced up and down on my bumper it responded normally but the strut was worn anyway.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt,

By "modern," of course, you're referring to the 30-year-old 1980s technology in my 1989 car.

VERY interesting!

[william]

Check rack bushings by turning all the way one direction and trying to wiggle the extended side for the rack pull and push up and down there should be no movement. This caused similar noise on my car .
Quick easy thing to check and you don't have to jack the car up or even be under it.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

Goodyear put it up on a lift and examined everything forward of the firewall. They said everything, including the steering back, looks fine, and suspects the McPherson struts.

I determined by driving over manhole covers that the clunk is for sure coming from right-front.

So I picked up two struts at O'Reilly and will install the right-side one the next warm dry sunny day. I may install a new LCA while I'm at it. Stabilizer bushings are recent new.

I've read on here about the welded-to-frame nut on the LCA attach bolt breaking off, so I'll hit it with WD-40 in advance.

This is Seattle, so that may not be for a while! I think the car is safely drivable for the time being.

Incidentally, Goodyear told me that their fancy laser alignment machines only go down to 13" -- no 12".

[WmWatt]

You don't need to remove the control arm to replace the struts. The strut is fastened to the knuckle with two bolts, 17mm if I remember correctly Rise the hood first and loosen the two nuts holding the top of the strut. Then jack up the car and remove the two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. I'm trying to visualize how I last did this and I think that's it. Oh yes, you have to unclip the brake line from the strut first.. Gently does it there. I think I recall using a screwdriver and hammer to tap the clip off the strut. I also seem to recall using a pry barto back the strut off the knuckle. A very large screwdriver and mallet might do. If I've forgot anything I hope somone will add it. Good luck.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt,

I'm aware that replacing the strut doesn't require removing the knuckle. I only mentioned the LCA since the LCA inner bushings are probably the only front-end rubber parts I haven't replaced on this 30-year-old car. Given how decomposed the end-of-stabilizer-bar bushings were, I'd be surprised if the LCA bushings aren't in equally bad shape.

I already have four new LCAs since I bought them to get stabilizer-end bushings which properly fit the stabilizer bar bot my two operating LXs. The bushings O'Reilly sells separately have a slightly-too-small ID and are made of a hard plastic-like material, and they literally split open if you try to force them on to the stabilizer bar. Yes, I'm aware that Festiva Store sells these bushings and will be buying some there to hold as future spares. Amazingly, O'Reilly recently reduced its LCA price from $36.99 to $31.99, and they come with not only new slightly-soft stabilizer bar bushings which fit properly, but also new Grade 10 pinch bolts+nuts.

I also have spring compressor tools -- I replaced a strut some years ago after buying a 91 Festy with both AC and PS for next to nothing after the seller panicked when a shop told her it wanted $3K to fix damage from a fender-bender which left a front wheel tilted about 30 degrees due to a strut deforming from the impact. I spent less than an hour replacing the strut and drove the car home.