Shopping list to pass state inspection

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Hey there. Trying to get the ol' Festiva on the road, and I just failed the Mass. State Inspection (I knew I would). I failed on the e-brake (no prob). I also failed on both lower ball joints. The guy that inspected it (who wasn't there when I picked the car up) also wrote in on the report that it "needs CV shafts".

So Question Number One is: Does "CV shafts" mean inner tie rods? outer tie rods? the axle assembly? All or some of the above? I've never really worked on steering stuff before, and I'm not too smart when it comes to the terminology.

Question Number Two: Since I need to remove the sway bar to do the control arm work, I figured I'd replace the sway bushings while I'm at it. What other stuff should I consider doing while I'm fixing this junk? I'm trying to put together my shopping list. Boots? Any other bushings?

Question Number Three: I'm probably ordering this stuff from FMS. Re: the sway bar bushings, would I need to order the "Festiva Front Sway Bar Bushing Set" and the "High durometer front sway bar bushing kit" (I'm reading it as the former being for the frame mounts and the latter for the control arm ends... does that sound right?)

This is new territory for me; I'll be relying on Haynes and this board to figure this project out. The only steering-ish work I've ever done before was upgrading a sway bar on a '66 Mustang. I know a guy that might help me out too, which is probably gonna be neccessary. Thanks for any input/insight you can give me.

tom.

[roycehof]

I think the contol arm bushings are sold separate from the sway bar bushings. Either way let them know you want the bushings that go between the sway bar and the control arm. The other ones are usually referred to sway bar body mount bushings. I think FMS sells two flavors - stock and high performance. The high performance uses high durometer rubber and cost more. The sway bar to control arm should be replaced when you do the control arms typically. - Usually the sway bar body mount bushing are O.K. Look them over and if they are starting to crack-up, might be a good time to replace those also. They shouldn't be too hard to find, but I know FMS does have them.

[roycehof]

OOPS - forgot to answer the first question - CV joints. Basically you have to "half shaft" that drive the front wheels. They go between the transmission and the front hub. Each "half shaft" (typically called axles) have two CV joints in them - one at the transmission end and one at the tire end. What typically happens is that the rubber boot that protect these CV (Constant Velocity) joints open up and dirt gets in the joints and damages them. If they are damaged you will here clicking noise when you make a sharp turn. In a shop environment they don't repair the joint or the boot - the replace the axle with a rebuilt one (Much quicker and easier). O.K., with that said, when you are replacing you control arms, you might as well remove the big nut on what appears to be the spindle and pull out the axles and replace them with rebuilds. The biggest problem is having a socket big enough for the nut - I'm thinking 27mm, but I'm really not sure.
With all that said, usually the driver side goes first, so the question is whether or not you need one or both axles. Ask the mechanic first - Last time I price a rebuilt axle it was around $60 and they want your old one back or you will pay a "core charge". Definately, something you want to do while you are attacking the control arms.
Just to let you know, sometimes pulling the axles out of the transmission can be a difficult task. You kind of need to snap it out in a nice clean jerking motion - If it doesn't come out, spin it a little and try again. If it doesn't come out after a couple of tries and sailor type cussing, you'll need to temporarily attach the hub and the Big nut - put outward pressure on it and give it a good shot with the hammer. Cussing doesn't make any difference but for me it seems to work - ha ha.
Again - good luck.

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Ah, thanks for the clarification.

ok, so basically, based off of what the inspection report says, I will need to buy two control arms/ball joints, and two half-shaft axles. So should I assume that I also need to replace my inner and outer tie-rods as well?

Is this the point where I should be considering an Aspire swap?

Thanks for the input royce

[nattyphysicist]

Ah, thanks for the clarification.

ok, so basically, based off of what the inspection report says, I will need to buy two control arms/ball joints, and two half-shaft axles. So should I assume that I also need to replace my inner and outer tie-rods as well?

Is this the point where I should be considering an Aspire swap?

Thanks for the input royce

If the report didn't mention the tie rods, then they don't need to be replaced. But do visually inspect the boots for tears. If you find any, then I would replace the joint.

Remember to break the axle nuts loose while the car is on the ground. These can be pretty tough. Use penetrating oil and a breaker bar with a long pipe. Where I am, you can borrow the socket from an auto parts store.

Remember that to do the Aspire swap, you will need to change your wheels because it's a different bolt pattern. With what you're doing, the only other thing to disconnect would be the brakes and the struts in order to do the Aspire swap. Then you will of course have to bleed the brakes, replace the outer tie rod ends and realign the front wheels.