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  • What should i do???

    I have a 92 1.3l i have just purchased 2 weeks ago for $100.00 canadian
    I have a delema on what i should do i have replaced the oil and crank seals as the were leaking,new timing belt,4 new snow tires,pcv,plugs wires,cap,rotor,air filter,and synthetic oil change
    It burns a little oil and will not pass the emissions,,i have replaced the cat and 02 and the front pipe too..unless it passes i canot drive :cry: my new little beast!!!!

    Anyone with any sugestions other than a rebuild???

    Thanks firstfestiva
    1992 Festiva L 3Dr 1.3L

  • #2
    B6

    Pick up a nice b6 and do the swap, you'll learn something, have a peppy car and pass emissions
    1996 Aspire, 2DR 5SPD 185 60 14, Aluminum rims, Mild Stereo system, some neon tubes, 185 000 km not a speck of rust runs like a champ
    B8-ME Swap COMPLETED.

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    • #3
      General tune-up stuff, maybe advance the timing a bit? Perhaps 20-50 oil to help pass the test? Just guessing - they don't do emissions tests here.

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      • #4
        I was in an Advance Auto the other day looking through their oil additives for some Stabil and I saw some kind of an additive that said it was to help pass emissions' test. I wasn't interested in it so I didn't really pay attention to it. If you have an Advance Auto store there, you might try looking through their oil/fuel additives for it.
        You gonna race that thing?
        http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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        • #5
          my 91 failed the emmisions test 5 times and after putting on a new cat it has passed the last 2 times.

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          • #6
            Can you give us the test results and the standard it has to meet?
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              when my car failed the e-test, it failed badly
              i put a new o2 sensor on it, tune up, the cat was still fairly new and it still failed
              so i had no choice but to fork out the money for a diagnostics test and they say it was an exaust leak in front of the cat so the cat couldn't do it's job and they got it to pass with flying colors
              so sometimes it is worth paying for the diagnostics

              1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
              1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
              2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

              1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

              If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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              • #8
                But thats the thing The Exhaust is New from the manifold back!!! and the tune up was just done it was high in c02,it failed by a mear 2 points,,i have tried the double your money back additive stuff too with no luck,,mabye i will just sell and buy something already tested
                1992 Festiva L 3Dr 1.3L

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                • #9
                  2 points? Have you tried premium fuel? How about that engine restorer stuff found at autozone & like? I barely failed without a cat, passed with flying colors after I put one in. As Damkid said look for leaks.
                  It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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                  • #10
                    Put straight 50 weight racing oil in it and then drain it after the test, don't let anybody tell you it will hurt it, I ran 50 weight for six months in my festiva in the summer. In the winter it is to thick but if you put uit in at room temperature and then take it out when you get home you won't have any problem at all. Empty the filter each time to and then put it back on. Also I don't think synthetic is good for old cars, just new cars.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Tom
                      I don't think synthetic is good for old cars, just new cars.
                      Incorrect! :violent1:

                      As found @ http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/re...s/synthoil.htm

                      Synthetic oil causing oil leaks is another commonly spread myth. The truth of the matter is that if all your engine seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will NOT leak in your engine. The myth started because on occasion, an engine will leak with synthetic oil, but not dino oil. The reason for this is that the smaller molecules of the synthetic are able to get past very small crevices, where the larger molecules of dino oil cannot. But this does not mean that the synthetic oil has caused the leak, it simply has "discovered" an infant leak, and regardless of what oil you are running, this infant leak will eventually grow to a size that will allow dino oil to occupy and pass also. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. It is not some evil solvent that will break down sealant, or anything like that. Like was said earlier, it is just a man-made base stock, that is uniform and smaller in molecule size than dino oil. Nothing more, nothing less.
                      It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by firstfestiva
                        But thats the thing The Exhaust is New from the manifold back!!! and the tune up was just done it was high in c02,it failed by a mear 2 points,,i have tried the double your money back additive stuff too with no luck,,mabye i will just sell and buy something already tested
                        my exhaust isn't that old either, maybe 3 years and i haven't driven it the past 2 winters

                        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Try pulling a inj. plug. I know mustang guys used to do this.
                          "Look, I have long hair, tats and smoke like a chimney.. All of my customers know it.. Don't like it? Don't turn over my rock."

                          RIP DJ

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                          • #14
                            Before you take it to test, drive the hell out of it for at least 30 minutes. Drive it at 60mph on the open road in fourth gear. The idea is to burn out all of the oil and fuel residue and deposits out of the combustion chambers and get the engine up to the temperature it was intended to operate at. A warm engine is a clean engine.

                            If you are testing the car at less that operating temperature, it could be running rich and that will make it fail every time.

                            Good luck.

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                            • #15
                              jimmy is right. the emmisions inspection place here in st.louis askes the person if the car was driven a short while before it had failed and then suggests to them to drive it on the highway and get it hot then bring it again for a retest.

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