CV Boot replacement

[Jasin]

I was planning on replacing the outer CV Boot on my Festiva, and according to the manual you gotta remove the half-shaft,,,but I remember seeing somewhere(prolly here) that its possible to change the boot with the axle shaft still in the transaxle. Can someone lead me to that post or give me quick instruction on it? Not wanting to use boots that are cut down the middle either.

[Dave G]

Get a rebuilt axle instead & just replace the whole thing. Not a whole lot more money, VASTLY easier, and better results. Speaking from experience here!

[Tom]

Quickboot they call them, they cost about $12 at AutoZone, they have little tiny bolts that hold them together, they also make them that glue together, I like the bolt ones. They can be a good way to go, get a grease gun needle and CV grease in a tube and grease the heck out of the CV and then put the new boot on, it might last a long time depending on how soon you found it and how contaminated and damaged it was before you replaced the boot.

[packrat427]

They also make one that zips up like a zip lock baggy.

My personal opinion .. don't waste your time replacing the boot , by the time you remove it and the time to put it on , you still have a used joint there . You will have enough time in it , you could do a complete axle .

Just pop a reman axle assy. in it $59.00 complete with a lifetime warranty , pop the axle out and put the new one in

[ejp2fast]

i have my axle off...and i have to replace both the outer boots... how hard are they to slip on/off the axle?

[gdawgs]

I replaced the boots on my first Festiva several times. If you catch them right away, the CV joint will last a long time. Mine had over 300,000 miles it and I never replaced an axle.

Yes it is easier yo just replace the whole axle, but to me it's worth my time to save the 45 - $50.

I wouldn't mess with split boots, get the solid ones. EJP2, you don't slip the boots off over the joint, you have to knock the joint off. To do that, put the axle in a vice(so that it is clamped in horizontally). Then it's easier if you have another person to help. Cut off the boot clamps, then slide the boot toward the center of the axle. Have one person hold a large hammer on the bottom side of the of the joint(the part that swivels) then whack the top side with another hammer. Repeat until it comes off. Then take off the old boot, put on the new boot, clean out the old grease, replace with new grease(usually comes with the boot), put the joint back together(whack end with hammer), then tighten the clamps.

[ejp2fast]

thanks....

[Bathtub Tom]

On this side of the pond, we now have boots that slide over a greased cone (inside out), and onto the CV joint. You still have to take the drive-shaft out of the hub, but there's no need to split the CV, or remove it from the diff.
I've never tried it.
The only one I've had to do, I undid the hub nut and bottom ball joint, and by turning the steering to maximum lock I was able to slide the shaft clear of the hub. Removed the old boot by cutting it off. Hold the diff end of the shaft firmly (you don't want it coming out of the diff) and give the CV a hefty clout with a hammer. Slide on the new boot.
"Re-assembly is the reverse of dismantling" as it says in Haynes.

[fastivaca]

I would have to agree with the "replace the whole axle" group. One thing I have learned though when picking up a replacement... make sure the cv joints themselves move around smoothly. I didn't check one and had to replace it after 3 months. I've even had a counter guy agree with me on another one shaft; he just returned it to his supplier as you could hardly move the joint and it almost sounded as if there was no grease in it.

A bonus, sort of, is that you can replace the transmission fluid at the same time.

[Jasin]

Ya, thats what I ended up doing (over a year ago), just replace with a new halfshaft.
Worth the extra money for sure.

[joebreck117]

Just to add, I changed my boots at the beginning of August. I got the whole boot instead of those zip-up/glue-together FAIL type boots...I knew the risk of the axle having gone bad and needing to be changed, but instead of changing the entire axel right away like i had seen suggested, i took a look at the old one. I put two pieces of wood in a vice to hold it still without marring it, and tried to turn the....wow this is a great time to forget terms.....the "cup" on the end of the shaft that surrounds the joint, feeling for any play in the joint. None whatsoever. I even got a guy down the street or works on that sorta thing to double check it. after 17/18 years, the joint was fine, so I put the axle back in. I did change the seal where the axle goes into the tranny though.

[ejp2fast]

what is the length difference between manual transaxles and automatic transaxles. I know they are different, but by how much?