Nothing

[fire_fighter_mike2]

I have a 91 festiva L, my fuel gauge, temp gauge, windshield wipers, and all my warning lights are not working.

At one point everything worked, but something happened and now nothing works.

DO these wires all connect or get there power from one source. I'm lost, i have been trying to figure this out for the the past 2 weeks.

ANy type of help is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

Michael

[slimone]

Re: Nothing

I have a 91 festiva L, my fuel gauge, temp gauge, windshield wipers, and all my warning lights are not working.

At one point everything worked, but something happened and now nothing works.

DO these wires all connect or get there power from one source. I'm lost, i have been trying to figure this out for the the past 2 weeks.

ANy type of help is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

Michael

Hi , kinda sounds like a power supply problem . check power at your ingition switch' to start . good luck Slim

[HappyMom]

Arrrrrrgh :evil:
I hate electricity.
I wanted to change a puny little bulb of the climate control system, and:

2nd Edit I might be starting to figure out electricity LOL
Burnt out the analog multimeter (but I got my money back)
No more cluster illumination
All the lights in the cluster seem to work, just not the backgroud lights
Just learnt how to measure voltage Duuuh
I am using the black (ground) wire on the dimmer/rheostat for all my measurementsfor the black ground wire/connection on the multimeter
11.7V at the connector for climate control light
11.7V at the dimmer control rheostat connector
I am using the ground (black wire) on the rheostat for the black ground wire and I have 11.7V at each of the bulb sockets (each side of each socket)

From my Ford CD:
Headlamps ON.
Turn the instrument panel dimmer rheostat knob.
Measure the voltage on the "R/W" wire at the dimmer rheostat connector.
Does the voltage vary from 0 to 10 volts?
Yes
SERVICE the "R/W" wire. GO to «IC10».
No
REPLACE the instrument panel dimmer rheostat.

the rheostat R/W wire stays at 11.7V, while it should be varying from 0 to 10V

Since mine's stuck at 11.7V, shouldn't the the lights be all super bright??


I have an electric schematic of a 92' (mine's a 90 but I think that makes no difference)

From what I can read off this thing is this is all connected to the TAIL fuse. That fuse is fine and tail lights work OK

The schematic also says that the rear defrost illumination lamp is conected to this, but the defrost light lights up

Also, are the lights in the climate control in series (like X-mass mini-lites) or parallel (there are 3). If I have two light bulbs, can I just chop one socket off and connect the wires together. Or is that how I just fucked everything up?

and they are smaller than #74. I tried a #74 = too big. I think a #73 will fit... nope, #73 is too big also, but just a tiny bit, do they make smaller bulbs. Or do I just have to TRY HARDER?...[/b]

Can I bypass the dimmer rheostat?

[aithanmier]

good luck with those light bulbs, i remember it took a couple of hours at the local advance auto to finally find the right size for the instument panel ilumination. now i wish i had written it down, but no matter i finally got the backlit white face tach cluster heheeh. don't feel bad though, i'm an electrician and i really hate electricity. the trick is to just keep at it and you'll finally find that gremlin.

[HappyMom]

I just remembered that I had spare light bulbs in my spare non-tack cluster.

Now I think I did something stupid that shorted something out ops:

I thought the lights were in series, so I tried by passing a socket by connecting together the Red/Green and Red/White wires.

When I first check, there was 12V between the Red/Green and the Red/White wire on the climate control connector. Now it's zero between those two wires, since both are at 12V. But i measure 12V between either of those wires and the ground (I tried both the blower black wire and the dimmer rheostat black wire as a ground)

My dimmer rheostat must be shot cause I get a constant 12V when I turn the knob, while it should be varying. But I also get 12V between ground and each bulb socket. So why isn't this working?

Edit: I think I figured it out. I did F-UP my dimmer rheostat. and since both wires (R/GN and R/W) are at the same voltage there is no curent flowing. This is why birds are not electrocuted sitting on power wires, no voltage differential.

Thank you anomoly40: I figured this out by reading your signature: "Current flows and I don't know where it goes" No voltage differential, no current

I was never good at electricity...

I can e-mail an Acrobat file of this wiring diagram is someone would be nice enough to confirm .
Fire_fighter mike2, I can send the wiring diagram for the circuit you're having problems with