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  • Stuck Spark Plug!

    I'm finally working on Twinstiva. Two spark plugs loosened easily, one came out yesterday with a lot of PB Blaster and tapping over about three days.

    One stubborn plug left to go! :x

    The third plug was hard to turn almost all the way till it came out, so lots of corrosion is there, I guess.

    As stated, I've used constant applications of PBB and putting the socket on and wiggling for some "tapping" effect to try to help the PBB infiltrate any cracks.

    If the last plug breaks, I guess it's B6 swap time! I'd really prefer to go with my B3 for awhile though, since I want a second running car to work on finishing up Luxstiva.

    Here's the pic thread of my cars, including Twinstiva, my $190/under 70K wonder:



    Karl
    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

  • #2
    If the plug is stuck, brute force may be your only option. The part that may break off doesn't matter anyway, as it's outside the spark plug hole. I'd say that the worst case scenario is that you'd have some badly damaged threads that would require repair. A thread insert would be the best option at that point. And from now on, use anti-seize compound!

    Comment


    • #3
      That's pretty much what I thought. I assume I'll have to remove the head and get the broken part drilled out or something if it breaks...if that happens, I don't feel like messing with a little B3--it's B6 swap time!!

      As for the anti-seize, I have a big bottle of it. If I could go back in time and get the previous owner to put some on, I would!

      Thanks,

      Karl
      '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
      '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
      '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
      '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
      '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Safety Guy
        As for the anti-seize, I have a big bottle of it. If I could go back in time and get the previous owner to put some on, I would!
        Wanna borrow my time machine?

        Comment


        • #5
          When I get stuck ones, I put some PB blaster on, then put the impact wrench on the low setting, and let it hammer. Then keep turning up the torque until it loosens up. Haven't broken one off yet.

          Comment


          • #6
            Monkeyracing asked:

            Wanna borrow my time machine?
            Does it look like a Festiva? I don't like Deloreans. :twisted:

            Karl
            '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
            '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
            '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
            '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
            '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by gdawgs
              When I get stuck ones, I put some PB blaster on, then put the impact wrench on the low setting, and let it hammer. Then keep turning up the torque until it loosens up. Haven't broken one off yet.
              Impact wrench is less likely to bust it than putting a breaker bar
              on and heaving away, PBB or no.

              Also have run the car for just a bit to get the head to warm, then
              wrench it.

              Comment


              • #8
                I would do it with the head as cold as possible. When it's warmed up the spark plug expands and so does the head, making the spark plug hole smaller and therefore putting a tighter grip on the plug itself. I had the same problem on my B3 some time ago. What made things even more challenging is that there was a tiny bit of gravel stuck in the plug hole which didn't allow a socket to get fully seated. Eventually got the plug out after soaking with a product called Release-All a number of times over the course of a week, using a six point socket and a long breaker bar. I was surprised that I didn't damage threads in the process. I did use anti-sieze on the replacement.
                Ian
                Calgary AB, Canada
                93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
                59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

                "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

                Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by fastivaca
                  I would do it with the head as cold as possible. When it's warmed up the spark plug expands and so does the head, making the spark plug hole smaller and therefore putting a tighter grip on the plug itself.
                  Actually, not quite. The plug will expand making it's diameter larger, but the spark plug hole with actually get larger as well, not smaller.

                  Seems backwards to most, but holes get larger when heated(like cylinder bores). This is actually used in some manufacturing processes to get really tight interference fits between parts, like a rod and a sleeve. The rod is cooled to decrease its diameter, and the sleeve is heated to make the diameter of the hole larger. When the rod is cold, and the sleeve is hot, the rod fits easily into the sleeve. Then when the parts are cooled to room temp, the rod expands, the sleeve constricts onto the rod, and they lock together.

                  Back to the spark plug problem, in my experience, slightly heating the engine helps at getting out the stuck plug.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for all the ideas, guys!

                    Yesterday I got the last plug loose. Lot's of PBB, patience, and gentle wiggling back and forth of the socket wrench eventually did it with no breakage. Whew!

                    I used my long breaker bar. Now it's time to tear apart the fuel system and clean everything out. New fuel tank to go in, too. Rust in the tank was the stated problem...

                    Karl
                    '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                    '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                    '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                    '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                    '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gdawgs
                      Seems backwards to most, but holes get larger when heated(like cylinder bores). This is actually used in some manufacturing processes to get really tight interference fits between parts, like a rod and a sleeve.
                      Esp. with two different metals, aluminum will expand faster than
                      steel for the same amount of BTUs applied.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        karl my mechanic did it the same way you did it and he was sweating because he did not want to break the spark plug and while watching him i was sweating also.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I used my long breaker bar. Now it's time to tear apart the fuel system and clean everything out. New fuel tank to go in, too. Rust in the tank was the stated problem...

                          Karl

                          How can I drop my rusty fuel tank without removing the exhaust pipe? Got the tank all unconnected and dropped the 4 tank bolts only to discover the S section nearest the tank is preventing dropping the tank. Any suggestions, etc. are welcome. 90 Festy/5spd MTX/200Kmiles
                          E95

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ha! I just dropped my old tank today. You wrote at exactly the right time.

                            After undoing all the bolts and connections, I found my tank hanging up on the e-brake cable and the axle. The Haynes directions say to move the tank to the left to lower it. I couldn't. So here's what I did: I unbolted both trailing arms where they met the body and let them swing loose (the axle being held on by the shocks alone). That allowed enough room to drop the tank to the ground!

                            Since the shocks are holding the axle on the car, it shouldn't be too hard to reattach them. I'm going to have my Dad's help this Saturday though, since installing the new tank may be more difficult than dropping the old one. DaveG said he had a bad time with his tank, too, with that axle getting in the way, but he did it. I don’t know how he did it.

                            Good luck and let me know how you do or if you have more questions! Where are you located?

                            Karl
                            '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                            '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                            '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                            '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                            '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

                            Comment

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