Carb'd Festy help!!

[Tim]

I got the new engine in my Blue '88 and haven't had much luck making it run.

It turns over, pops, splutters, and shoots stuff out of the carb, but it won't start.

According to the member I got it from, the engine ran like a champ before he ripped it out to do a swap.

It sat outside all winter, exposed to the elements, but everything looks ok and it cranks easily. I haven't touched anything but the distributor since I dropped the engine in.

I have spark, and advancing the timing seems to make it pop and cough more.

Fuel is getting to the cylinders, and the fuel pump squirts out fresh gasoline. It coughs and pops more when starting fluid is poured into the carb.

I'm missing a few vacuum lines (going to the canister and some of the relays) and a solenoid or two. However I think I plugged all the vacuum ports on the intake, so it shouldn't be leaking too much. And even with a few leaks it should still fire.

All connectors are plugged in except for one that goes to the block, right below the intake manifold, and a harness ground wire that's by the charcoal canister - can't figure out where it goes.

I'm assuming the valve timing is correct, since I was getting even compression on all cylinders.


Any ideas why this sucker isn't firing up? Something obvious I'm overlooking?


Regards,

Tim

[elcamino1]

Did you ever remove the distributer from the engine?
Did you replace the spark plug wires?

[Tim]

Did you ever remove the distributer from the engine?
Did you replace the spark plug wires?

I haven't taken the distributor out. I did loosen the bolts to adjust the timing though.

I did disconnect the wires at one point, but I'm pretty sure they're in the right order since they are different lengths. I'll double-check just to be sure though.


Thanks!


Tim

[WmWatt]

If it's backfiring ("pops", "sputters") it's pretty sure to be ignition timing. no? Is the vacuum advance hose on the distrubutor one of the hoses that is missing? That is used until the engine (O2 sensor) heats up and the computer kicks in to control spark advance.

There are separate circuits in the ignition control module inside the distributor. Until the O2 sensor kicks in the engine runs like a pre-computer carbureted engine. The timing is controlled by the vaccum and mechanical (the revolving weight) on the distributor. Set the timing as you would for any carburetted engine. As for the computer, it uses the timing you set at the "initial" or base timing and advances from that to optimize fuel consumption based on changing O2 reading under varying driving conditions.l

[Tim]

The distributor was missing a vacuum hose, which I replaced. The engine seemed to "catch" a little easier after that.

We rearranged the spark plug wires, and that almost eliminated the stuff shooting out of the carb (which caught on fire earlier).

It now will sort of start. I can make the engine go on its own for about 2 revolutions, but that's about it.

I think I'm getting close now... I just need to know where to go next.


Regards,

Tim

[GenevaDirt]

I noticed on mine that the distributor rotor can go on in 3 positions....if you had if off...are you sure it is in the right position?
3 tries to get it right.....lol

[Tim]

I noticed on mine that the distributor rotor can go on in 3 positions....if you had if off...are you sure it is in the right position?
3 tries to get it right.....lol

Haven't tried that yet...

That's what we'll do tomorrow - hopefully that will get it running!

[WmWatt]

If all else fails get the ignition control module (ICM) tested. When mine went the garage could not get the engine to run more than a few seconds. They guessed it might be the ICM and I had to put up the money for a new one so they could find out. I learned later when I had to replace the one they put in dry that parts stores test them for free.

[Fordverde]

Check if the vacuum advance leaks, mine did and could never find a replacement

[Tim]

Rotating the distributor didn't do anything expect make the engine not fire.

I'll have the ICM tested. Is it that can that's mounted on the driver's side of the car and has a wires going to the distributor?

I also have another distributor - the one from my B6 - and it's vacuum advanced. I'll try swapping them out and see what happens.


Regards,

Tim

[Tim]

Check if the vacuum advance leaks, mine did and could never find a replacement

How would I do that?

[FestYboy]

take a vac pump and pull (or try to) a vacuum on one side and see if it holds, then do the same for the other side. upper side should hold vac, lower side i'm not sure about, but i think it's supposed to hold as well.

[Tim]

IT RUNS!!!!!

Kyle and Mike (TRUCKtiva and Fastiva55) looked at it this evening, connected some vacuum hoses and it fired right up!

It runs a bit rough, and I still have to hook up the exhaust, some vacuum lines, and a few other things, but I think this is a victory.

Thanks to everyone who helped me with this thing! Hopefully I should have it tabbed and on the road in the next few days.


Tim

[WmWatt]

On the carb'd models the ICM is inside the distributor, a black plastic part which plugs in IFRC and is secrured by screws. I've read here that on the fuel injected models it's on the fender. If yours is on the fender there might be a mismatch.

If it needs replacing, there is some detail on replacing an ICM on the carburetted model on my website at www.ncf.ca/~ag384/Cars.htm . It's important to bed the ICM in dielectric heat transfer paste which is explained there.

If it needs replacing call around for prices. There is only one manufacturer in japan but I found a wide variation in retail prices. Also note there is a 5 year, 50,000 km warranty on the one on the car provided you have proof of purchase.