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over torquing wheel bearings

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  • over torquing wheel bearings

    Is it the front or rear bearings you have to watch out for overtorquing? I remember one of them if you tighten the nut too much they wear out super fast.

    I just did one side of the fronts and I'm going to do the other side this weekend.
    www.dantheoilman.com
    AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
    Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
    Go ahead and ask me why

  • #2
    most auto parts stores will let you rent torque wrenches for pretty cheap or free. It's so much easier than breaking things.
    OX SMASH!!

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    • #3
      Oh yeah, I have the torque wrench. Just no torque specs (maybe it's in the book, but I haven't looked) and I can't remember if it's the front or rear bearings.
      www.dantheoilman.com
      AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
      Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
      Go ahead and ask me why

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      • #4
        any bearing will wear prematurely if over-torqued.
        Jim DeAngelis

        kittens give Morbo gas!!



        Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
        Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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        • #5
          Just be easy with them. Torque them while spinning either the drum, or the rotor, until they are hard to spin, then back them off about a 1/4 turn. And remember to use NEW cotter pins.

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          • #6
            no cotter pins on Festivas, just the little crush nuts and a slot on the spindle or axle shaft.

            Clinton

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            • #7
              In my shop manual it says to torque that big bolt to 124 ft lbs or something....so I think I'm set.
              www.dantheoilman.com
              AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
              Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
              Go ahead and ask me why

              Comment


              • #8
                Dan has an Aspire ya'll. They do have the cotter pin setup, on the rear axles.

                BTW, Dan, how do you not remember whether it is a front or rear job? Don't the Aspire (and Festiva) front hubs have to have their bearings pressed out or something? And there is a special way to ensure proper bearing set in the hub? The rear bearings on both cars are very easily "user serviceable" compared to the front bearings, as I understand it. I've seen the "bare knuckles/hubs" on both cars and I don't remember anything remotely "easy" about front bearing removal/installation (though I've read it's possible if you know what you're doing & have the proper tools). And I've done the rear bearings and brakes on both Festiva and Aspire rear axles so I'm "passingly familiar" with them.

                Karl
                '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                • #9
                  No cotter pins there either.

                  Clinton

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                  • #10
                    Well I'm in the middle of doing the fronts. Did the driver's side. The passanger side maybe this weekend.

                    I just remember someone having a thread that they did their wheel bearings, it failed, did it again, they failed....I couldn't remember if it was the front or back.

                    Luckily, I have a friend/customer that does a lot of lifts on trucks. So he has pretty much a full shop including like a 5 ton press! =) So it was easy for him to press out and in the new races and wheel bearings.

                    Also it helps I just did front struts and tie rod ends because the whole front end of my car came apart easy this time since it hasn't had time to rust solid. =) Of course, I will need an alignment when we're done. =(
                    www.dantheoilman.com
                    AMSOIL dealer and window tinter.
                    Trust me folks, you need www.auto-rx.com
                    Go ahead and ask me why

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dan wrote:

                      "Also it helps I just did front struts and tie rod ends because the whole front end of my car came apart easy this time since it hasn't had time to rust solid. =) "

                      I know what you mean. I hope my '93GL will be a lot easier than my rust-encrusted '89L was when I do my next suspension swap!

                      Karl
                      '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                      '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                      '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                      '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                      '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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