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see pics at start of thread......btw, i found the email i saved with the info on garys car its from jan 15, 2001 as follows:
[start of email]
Windows- nope, the inner doors are no longer there- you have to do quite
a bit
to get a car that small down to 1400 from 2600lbs. Exhaust consists of a
custom
header, straight pipe, glass pack muffler and a turn down tip. The
clutch is a
three fiber pad setup that weighs only six lbs as an assembly (half the
stock
weight), I still have the stock and another brass racing clutch from
Mazda
Racing. The title is clear and yes I did start with a bone stock L
series 5
speed no options off the showroom floor car. I drove it to Woodward with
an "M"
plate. There is an attached picture of the carbs- the only difference is
they
now point toward the firewall instead of over the top. As far as the
power
compared to FI- no comparison. If you want to one up the carbs you would
have to
use the carb bodies and addapt an injection system to them. The carbs
are very
reliable and push a lot of gas into those little cylinders. The body
part- if
you could- the clay modeling will cost you about $7K, the molds $12K,
and bagged
CF parts trimmed to fit another $5K. As you will see
from the photos there is only one of these I a really doubt there is
another
with a 1.3L motor that is going to even come close to its performance. I
didn't
really plan on trying to sell it until spring because I think you need
to push
on the gas to appreciate the little monster. Even in street tires the
thing will
pull over 1G- in new race slicks the G meter was at 1.2 on concrete.
For street use it will need Windshield, wiper(need to be there don't
need to
work), headlights, mirrors. Other than that it will pass. It has never
been
reported as a race car so there should not need to be an inspection. As
long as
the cops can see the equipment you will be good to go. I do run turbo
blue gas
right now, but it can run premium with no problem. There in no stock
interior in
it at all- it has VDO tach with rev light, oil, temp, and volt gauges.
If you
think you want side glass and the IP it may be better to buy a parts car
for
$200 that buy new stuff. I would just learn what speeds are with the
tach and
put an alarm on it instead of side windows. You will have a real hard
time
making another Festiva perform like this on. Most everything in the
motor was
made just for this car- there are few performance parts available off
the self.
It took almost 6 years to do what was done and if you paid for
everything on it
you could get to $40K real quick- no kidding. As I stated in my last
e-mail
there is $15,000 just in the short block. The red line is around 8500.
Yes I still have the car and it now has a fresh motor in it after all
the racing
I did with it. Jegs actually build the motor and heads and the rest is
still
intact. It's still kicking out some serious hp for its weight and size-
maybe a
little over the 150 mark. The molds are long gone for the body work, and
yes
they are carbon (the entire front clip, rear fenders, and hatch). Since
I don't
race anymore I am looking at getting into more of a vehicle I can take
my kids
out in and scare the heck out of them with. As I hope you know this car
right
now is set up for racing- not really the street. But, with not a whole
lot of
money you could get it back on the street. It would be scary fast and
out handle
anything you could come up against out there on the highways. I'm
thinking of
selling it for a quick $6,000 to pay off the remainder of the $15,000
for the
engine build. Then I can start clean with a street car with 4 seats. I
also want
to mention that the car only has about 200 street miles on it from being
brand
new off the show room floor. Never ever has it been in snow or even
rain. The
engine has less than 1 hour on it- I only drove it to the Woodward
Cruise last
year and back again. I did get the opportunity to defend the honor of
little
cars everwhere by kicking a pro street Mustang's butt on the way home.
More info that I will be using to sell it:
1990 Ford Fastiva Race Car- Full race (could be converted to street),
only 200
street miles, aprox 150 hp 1.3L built by Jegs High Performance Race Shop
(less
than 1 hour on motor), air flowed heads (20% improvement), Corvette
valves,
Crane cam, electric fuel pump w/Fram high volume fuel filter, 40mm side
draft
carbs, header, MSD ignition and spark computer, fuel cell, Recaro comp
seat
(10lbs), 5 point harness, race clutch, Koni comp shocks, Eibach
progressive rate
springs, dual front stabilizer bars, 2 sets of 3 piece Weld racing
wheels,
Hoosier race rubber, BFG Comp T/A street tires, front clip- tail gate-
4" wheel
flares are bagged carbon fiber, about 1400lbs wet, polycarb windshield-
rear
quarter glass- back glass, very ready to race. Autocross racing prepared
class [ end of email ]
...........so you can see ive followed festys forever......enjoy....mike
[start of email]
Windows- nope, the inner doors are no longer there- you have to do quite
a bit
to get a car that small down to 1400 from 2600lbs. Exhaust consists of a
custom
header, straight pipe, glass pack muffler and a turn down tip. The
clutch is a
three fiber pad setup that weighs only six lbs as an assembly (half the
stock
weight), I still have the stock and another brass racing clutch from
Mazda
Racing. The title is clear and yes I did start with a bone stock L
series 5
speed no options off the showroom floor car. I drove it to Woodward with
an "M"
plate. There is an attached picture of the carbs- the only difference is
they
now point toward the firewall instead of over the top. As far as the
power
compared to FI- no comparison. If you want to one up the carbs you would
have to
use the carb bodies and addapt an injection system to them. The carbs
are very
reliable and push a lot of gas into those little cylinders. The body
part- if
you could- the clay modeling will cost you about $7K, the molds $12K,
and bagged
CF parts trimmed to fit another $5K. As you will see
from the photos there is only one of these I a really doubt there is
another
with a 1.3L motor that is going to even come close to its performance. I
didn't
really plan on trying to sell it until spring because I think you need
to push
on the gas to appreciate the little monster. Even in street tires the
thing will
pull over 1G- in new race slicks the G meter was at 1.2 on concrete.
For street use it will need Windshield, wiper(need to be there don't
need to
work), headlights, mirrors. Other than that it will pass. It has never
been
reported as a race car so there should not need to be an inspection. As
long as
the cops can see the equipment you will be good to go. I do run turbo
blue gas
right now, but it can run premium with no problem. There in no stock
interior in
it at all- it has VDO tach with rev light, oil, temp, and volt gauges.
If you
think you want side glass and the IP it may be better to buy a parts car
for
$200 that buy new stuff. I would just learn what speeds are with the
tach and
put an alarm on it instead of side windows. You will have a real hard
time
making another Festiva perform like this on. Most everything in the
motor was
made just for this car- there are few performance parts available off
the self.
It took almost 6 years to do what was done and if you paid for
everything on it
you could get to $40K real quick- no kidding. As I stated in my last
there is $15,000 just in the short block. The red line is around 8500.
Yes I still have the car and it now has a fresh motor in it after all
the racing
I did with it. Jegs actually build the motor and heads and the rest is
still
intact. It's still kicking out some serious hp for its weight and size-
maybe a
little over the 150 mark. The molds are long gone for the body work, and
yes
they are carbon (the entire front clip, rear fenders, and hatch). Since
I don't
race anymore I am looking at getting into more of a vehicle I can take
my kids
out in and scare the heck out of them with. As I hope you know this car
right
now is set up for racing- not really the street. But, with not a whole
lot of
money you could get it back on the street. It would be scary fast and
out handle
anything you could come up against out there on the highways. I'm
thinking of
selling it for a quick $6,000 to pay off the remainder of the $15,000
for the
engine build. Then I can start clean with a street car with 4 seats. I
also want
to mention that the car only has about 200 street miles on it from being
brand
new off the show room floor. Never ever has it been in snow or even
rain. The
engine has less than 1 hour on it- I only drove it to the Woodward
Cruise last
year and back again. I did get the opportunity to defend the honor of
little
cars everwhere by kicking a pro street Mustang's butt on the way home.
More info that I will be using to sell it:
1990 Ford Fastiva Race Car- Full race (could be converted to street),
only 200
street miles, aprox 150 hp 1.3L built by Jegs High Performance Race Shop
(less
than 1 hour on motor), air flowed heads (20% improvement), Corvette
valves,
Crane cam, electric fuel pump w/Fram high volume fuel filter, 40mm side
draft
carbs, header, MSD ignition and spark computer, fuel cell, Recaro comp
seat
(10lbs), 5 point harness, race clutch, Koni comp shocks, Eibach
progressive rate
springs, dual front stabilizer bars, 2 sets of 3 piece Weld racing
wheels,
Hoosier race rubber, BFG Comp T/A street tires, front clip- tail gate-
4" wheel
flares are bagged carbon fiber, about 1400lbs wet, polycarb windshield-
rear
quarter glass- back glass, very ready to race. Autocross racing prepared
class [ end of email ]
...........so you can see ive followed festys forever......enjoy....mike
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