My new Festiva

[purg3d]

I really don't know what to say. '91, 124k Festy with an ASC funtop. Looks to originally be an L. I'm not sure if the funtop is original to the car. The PO replaced the fabric with a waterproof vinyl, added GL seats and alloy wheels. The paint is a single-stage satin black.
Currently, I am swapping out the interior for my escort seats and manual belts/carpet. I don't believe the car originally came with a radio, as I've only located the single W/R power pigtail, but no front/rear or blue wires to be found. Engine runs like a top, with no internal or external leaks. I'm going to replace the passenger door, as the current one sags and is crumpled for whatever reason. After painting, it appears the PO hastily put the car back together as he mismatched screws/cross-threaded the rear seat studs, but that's about it. Also, the only rust to be found is in the spare tire well. It's bad, but I wouldn't consider it 'structurally compromised'. No rust to be found otherwise. Looks the lion-share of my spare parts will be put to good use. Looks like I'll be here for a long, long time.:highly_amused::whip2:

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[Spike]

FUNTOPPPPPPP

*gasp*

[william]

nice i all ways wanted a fun top but couldn't bring my self to cutting a hole in my roof that why 1 never installed my sun roof lol.

[bobbyspider]

FUNTOP!!! also thats a realy god job on the black satin paint

[purg3d]

Just a small update before I present the various problem areas. Both windows rolled down, but did not roll up. Upon closer inspection, both sets of tracks were mangled. I believe a recent paint job to be the culprit. Replaced doors, fenders and gas cover. Ironically enough, with original color pieces. Interior is Escort LX seats with 88-89 L/LX Belts/Plastics/Carpet.



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[purg3d]

Cracked frame rail, mangled lower radiator support. My guess is, hit a curb and tore the stabilizer bar away from the subframe. Can anyone think of a repair strategy? Should I consider scrapping this project for a chassis in better condition (impact damage mostly top radiator support/driver's wheel apron)?


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[Zanzer]

No reason to scrap it. Replace the front core support with Charlie's lower core support mod. The car will be stronger and handle better. You can pull the frame rail back out and plate over the cracked section.

[purg3d]

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, Zanzer. Found this thread very informative. It's worth a try.

[Zanzer]

That's the one Charlie = Advancedynamix, sorry I should have included his username in my previous post. Motoxpress did this same mod to his core support and it was a huge improvement. We will be doing it to all of my cars and a few other member's cars as well.

[purg3d]

Adding some more pictures. Now with the bumper off. Slow progress. Any suggestions on where to start yanking first? Suggestions on how to get accurate measurements to see how far it needs to come? No tram gauge here.

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[Advancedynamix]

Well, it looks like that has already been pulled-ish. I think the squished lower rad support is the result of a chain, rope, cable or strap being looped around that part to pull it out. If the bumper fits and the sway bar brackets fit then I'd leave it alone and weld patches over the cracks and just cut the old rad support out and weld in mounts and gussets for a new piece. I didn't record any measurements when I made mine (had no idea I was going to enjoy the car this much or I would have). If you beg Motoxpress enough then maybe he can put you on the surgery list. It's easier to do a bunch of them at once. Luckily, your car is damaged in the only area that Mazda skimped on when they designed the chassis. Lol. It'll buff out.

[purg3d]

You're right. Looks like this was "fixed" before. Checking the alignment with a string and tape measure, wheels are equally toed out. The wheel base might be 1/8" longer on the damaged side, but I was measuring from the back of the rims- just to get a rough estimate. To measure caster, I put an angle finder up to a hacksaw blade. Putting it against the wheel, the bad side is 2 degrees (inward), compared to 90 degrees on the "good" side. The good side also has a new tire, and sits on a slight grade with the bad corner likely as the low point.

To patch the frame I've enlisted the help of my stepfather. He's only used the flux core configuration of his Lincoln welder for plate steel and the occasional bolt. I understand the acids in the flux would eventually cause the patch to fail. Could someone speak to this? Looks like I should try to drill holes on either side of the crack. Should we weld the crack closed before applying the patch? Would 1/8" plate steel be the logical option for a patch? Diamond plate?

Also, if a mod wants to move this thread, I'd appreciate it.

[Advancedynamix]

don't use diamond plate, but 1/8" cold rolled steel plate will work fine. You can weld the crack first if you'd like, but it may just cause more warpage. Flux cored wire doesn't have acid in it, your thinking of soldering flux. The welding flux is made up of minerals and silicon, it bonds with oxides in the molten metal and causes them to float to the outside of the weld where they cool as slag. As the flux melts it also releases gases like C02 that shield the weld from atmosphere. Flux core wire isn't the best choice, but if it's all you have then it'll work. You'll want to tack the plate in place, with as tight a fitment as you can get. You can use a hammer to shape the plate to the body as you tack it in place. Then "stitch weld" around the plate, alternating from side to side while you stitch it and letting the welds cool enough to touch them with your hand in between welds. This will minimize warpage and HAZ area. You'll want all metal surfaces to be clean and free of paint and grease/oil before welding.

[purg3d]

11 gauge Cold Rolled Steel 1008 it will be. I was test fitting with a manilla envelope, and here's what I came up with. I read somewhere to patch 3-4" over the crack. Should the patch be welded 100%, or would leaving the yellow areas open allow for necessary flex?
Also, in regards to the bottom part: looks like that'll be the place most likely to fail (and hardest to weld). Should I cut the patch to almost come to the lip, and then weld into the spot welds? Or should I approach it in a different way, such as drilling holes for spot welds, or terminate right into the lip?
Thank you.

[bravekozak]

Take it to a frame straightening shop. They have the specs for every vehicle. they put the pins in the holes and pull hydraulically in all directions until spec is attained. Buy some spot weld drill bits, remove the old damaged pieces and then weld on new pieces from Four Green.