my imgur test

[lessersivad]

http://imgur.com/a/cBUnG

fail

[w4rkry]

I will be making a small write up soon on how you can easily add pictures from Imgur

[nonamekid]

Nice Festiva.

[ryanprins13]

Wow!

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[william]

Looks good, how did the paint and rust repair hold up over the years? Worst thing about rust is even after its patched it rust 6 inches away from your patch lol. It's never ending in the rust belt.

[lessersivad]

I will be making a small write up soon on how you can easily add pictures from Imgur

Yea, I read that in another post. Just thought I'd give it a shot. Thanks.

[w4rkry]

Yea, I read that in another post. Just thought I'd give it a shot. Thanks.

The problem with your post here is that you just copy and pasted a link to the album. If you want the pics to show up, you have to do them 1 by 1, and you have to copy/paste them with the BBcode format. But that should be covered by the Guide that John (theastronaut) posted earlier. Read through it and give it another try!

[lessersivad]

William,

Festy 2017 001.jpgFesty 2017 002.jpgFesty 2017 003.jpgFesty 2017 004.jpg

So I just went out and snapped these with my toaster....LOL.

The orange paint itself has faded quite a bit (but most any single stage with red tint does).

The only time it gets washed is when it rains and I never did wet sand or buff the paint. I've never even waxed it.
It gets driven all year round and I was about floored when I saw how long ago it was I did the paint.

It was pretty much an experiment to see how well the $30/$50 paint job would hold up. I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the paint could be brought back. Maybe not to 'fresh from the booth' shiny but close to it.

The rust repair seems to be holding up rather well. The paint on the 'paintable' chip guard/undercoat has not held up real well as can been seen in the pics.

I accredit the rust repair holding up thus far to coating the insides of all the panels with FluidFilm.

The pic of the passenger side 3/4 view shows a dark area on the bottom of the door, towards the rear. THAT spot is actually where the FluidFilm has 'creeped' or 'oozed' out of the door seam. Same for the other door and the hatch.

I'm sold on using this after repair work has been done.

[william]

Not bad for a cheap job!
And I bet it could be buffed back too. Rust prevention spray is always a great idea definitely after repair work.
I use sim rust preventer with a 3 foot wond to get into all the cracks after replacing things like door skins and quarter panels.

[lessersivad]

Not bad for a cheap job!
And I bet it could be buffed back too. Rust prevention spray is always a great idea definitely after repair work.
I use sim rust preventer with a 3 foot wond to get into all the cracks after replacing things like door skins and quarter panels.

Thanks. I really didn't use anything (rust prevention wise) in the past except for possibly some 3M body shultz or other undercoating. Then I found Fluid Film a few years ago and use it quite often.

Been doing body work off and on for almost 40 years and things sure have changed since the 'lead and lacquer' I started using 'back in the day'. I still dabble with lead and wish I could still get hold of some lacquer....LOL.

[william]

You can still get lacquer! Heck you can get it at most parts stores in ready to spray quarts by dubli color.
Never used it tho so it may not be the best quality.
I started body work LONG After lacquer I spray water based paint now and love it.
But the old school ways are pretty awesome, I wish I knew how to do led work.

[lessersivad]

You can still get lacquer! Heck you can get it at most parts stores in ready to spray quarts by dubli color.
Never used it tho so it may not be the best quality.
I started body work LONG After lacquer I spray water based paint now and love it.
But the old school ways are pretty awesome, I wish I knew how to do led work.

Yea I've seen it and I haven't tried it either. Something about it being 'ready to spray' don't sit well with me. I'd rather thin it myself with MY thinner of choice.

Well I'll be, I just did a quick 'google' and found TCP Global sells factory pack acrylic lacquer and the different temp thinners. Hmmm, may have to order some one of these days and try it out.

[theastronaut]

The Duplicolor lacquer is junk, and also very expensive compared to a good quality urethane clear that will last much longer. It also yellows over a short amount of time, like 1-2 years.

I've used PPG and Spies Hecker urethane clears in our restoration shop and have recently switched to SPI Polyurethane. It sprays better and buffs much easier than PPG or Spies and the quality is the same. The only reason I'd use lacquer is if I were restoring a car that originally came with lacquer and it needed to be 100% correct.

[lessersivad]

The Duplicolor lacquer is junk, and also very expensive compared to a good quality urethane clear that will last much longer. It also yellows over a short amount of time, like 1-2 years.

I've used PPG and Spies Hecker urethane clears in our restoration shop and have recently switched to SPI Polyurethane. It sprays better and buffs much easier than PPG or Spies and the quality is the same. The only reason I'd use lacquer is if I were restoring a car that originally came with lacquer and it needed to be 100% correct.

So I went to SPI's website and they show a few different clears. If you don't mind me asking, which one(s) do you use? Looks to be pretty good product.

The things I like about lacquer (at least with the older stuff) is you could do a blend in the middle of a panel without having to go to an inconspicuous area to mask off. Lacquer used to be 'meltable' using the simple 'thinner through the gun' technique so no blended area was detected.

It was 'meltable and movable' with a buffer. On single stage a thin spot could actually be covered with surrounding paint by melting and moving the paint with a wool pad. Saving material and the customer money vs. spraying.

Pretty much could be painted anywhere and very forgiving if a mistake was made.

I don't recall (but then again I am getting older) any of the acrylic lacquer factory paint delaminating in sheets after a few years like I've seen in the recent past. With the possible exception of a 'rubber nose', bumper cover, or filler panel being flexed thus cracking the paint, it didn't 'fly off' going down the road.

A couple of cons of lacquer are it's not as durable as an activated coating. Be it acrylic enamel or a urethane or poly.

Humidity can really 'blush it out' or make it milky looking during or soon after application.