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  • #16
    Originally posted by perucho View Post
    He was last here in Nov 09
    All this talk... And no one answered my question.

    I asked. Does it makes a good boost in power? I have a cai and a straight through exhaust.
    :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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    • #17
      Originally posted by lancerevo View Post
      All this talk... And no one answered my question.

      I asked. Does it makes a good boost in power? I have a cai and a straight through exhaust.
      You were asking it to someone that hasn't been at this site for several months.

      Before getting your panties all bunched up, re-read post #14. I think all depends on how much power you are looking to get. It may be cheaper to swap the engine depending on your hp goals.
      Oscar

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      • #18
        Thanks for looking out for my posts.
        Yeah a performance camshaft is worth the price in the power increase. Is that too much talk or not to the point enough?

        And I remembered you from your other posts, since you live in malta, cant/wont do an engine swap due to time/financial/space constraints, that outside of an engine swap or forced induction, a cam is the next best power increase possible.

        FMS also has a lightened flywheel that would free up some horsepower, not make it.

        We have suggested that you try and find a B6 motor around and build that up while the B3 continues on its life. Then when your situation/finances improve you can swap in a warmed over b6 with the cam you want for the b3, a 4-1 header that also can come from the B3, maybe a port job on the head if you can find someone to do it(or get one from over here & pay to have it shipped), and since the motor was rebuilt it will be practically new with no leaks or oil consumption issues.



        Any questions?
        It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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        • #19
          With the fms stage 1 cam, is there a need to change the valve springs or the hydraulic lifters?
          :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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          • #20
            With the fms stage 1 cam, is there a need to change the valve springs or the hydraulic lifters?
            :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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            • #21
              No you dont need to change anything but the cam itself.
              No you dont need to change anything but the cam itself.
              No you dont need to change anything but the cam itself.
              No you dont need to change anything but the cam itself.
              No you dont need to change anything but the cam itself.
              Sorry if people dont respond in 36hrs between sunday afternoon and monday after work
              It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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              • #22
                Originally posted by muscle_Car1 View Post
                Sorry if people dont respond in 36hrs between sunday afternoon and monday after work
                I apologize.
                :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                • #23
                  ^ its ok sometimes it takes a few days to get the answers your looking for...
                  We only have 820 active members worldwide.

                  So did you end up getting the camshaft?
                  It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by muscle_Car1 View Post
                    ^ its ok sometimes it takes a few days to get the answers your looking for...
                    We only have 820 active members worldwide.

                    So did you end up getting the camshaft?
                    I am waiting for it.
                    :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                    • #25
                      Today I received and installed the camshaft and to tell the truth I expected to be more than I thought, not to say that it didn't increased power, it definitely increased power in the mid and upper rev range. I think it's worth it. Took me 3 hours max to install it. It's true that you need to take a filing tool and file some of the metal on the cam where the distributor drive slot is, maybe 0.040" to remove. The only think that got me thinking is that I noticed a reduce in idle vacuum. Before the cam was 19inHg, now it's 15inHg. Could it be because of valve overlap? I think the valves are not closing completely during the compression stroke because of the different cam duration. And the ignition timing was advanced like 15deg more than before. I adjusted the timing back to 10deg btdc. Any info?
                      Last edited by lancerevo; 08-04-2010, 12:07 PM.
                      :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                      • #26
                        lower vac readings at idle are normal... i suggest you invest in an adjustable cam gear to rectify the "timing issue".
                        Trees aren't kind to me...

                        currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                        94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                        • #27
                          Does anyone knows the specs of the fms street cams?
                          :festiva: 1995 Kia Pride, 1.3 EFI, manual. :fred:

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                          • #28
                            You typically get a reduced vacuum, with a performance cam. Roger at FMS has been quite reluctant to give out any specs, so no sorry. If your looking for more they have a race cam too. Or find a B6
                            It's a good thing you don't read the stickies, you might of learned something.Poverty produces creativity

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                            • #29
                              Just curious if anyone has ever had their b3 on a dyno to check the before and after on any of these common mods(cam,header,cat-back)? I have an 88' carbed model so I can't do much with a CAI system,but have been toying with the idea of installing the FMS street/strip cam and headers with a hi-flo exhaust.Also need the shifter bushings replaced(219k) and can't seem to get any info on something better than the factory softies.I was hoping to find some bronze replacements.Any leads would be appreciated
                              Go Fast !!,Take Chances !!

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                              • #30
                                Yes, increased valve overlap will result in less vacuum. It will also reduce cylinder pressure (i.e. low RPM torque) which is why long duration/high overlap cams require increased compression. The FMS cam shouldn't have much overlap. I'm impressed that you took before & after vacuum readings! The lack of specs on the FMS cams has been an on-going discussion.
                                Brian

                                93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                                04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                                62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                                1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                                Not enough time or money for any of them

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